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BICYCLING FOR LADIES
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WHEELING FROM THE PEG — SHOWING INCLINATION OF WHEEL.
The Common Sense of Bicycling
Bicycling for Ladies
With Hints as to the Art of Wheeling- Advice to Beginners— dress— Care of THE BIC YCLE - MECHA NICS— TRA IN-
ing— Exercise, Etc., Etc.
BY
MARIA E. WARD
ILL US TRA TED
IRew l^ork: BRENTANO’S
CHICAGO
Washington
Paris
»
Copyright, i8qb , by
BRENTANO'S
BICYCLING FOR LADIES
\
I
.
.
1
PREFACE
I have found that in bicycling, as in other sports essayed by them, women and girls bring upon them¬ selves censure from many sources. I have also found that this censure, though almost invariably deserved, is called forth not so much by what they do as the way they do it.
It is quite natural to suppose, in attempting an unaccustomed exercise, that you have to do only what you see done and as others about you are do¬ ing. But to attain success in bicycling, as in other things, it is necessary to study the means as well as to look to the end to be attained, and to understand what must not be attempted as well as to know each step that will be an advance on the road to progress.
A great deal has been said against attempting to study a little of anything; but when a slight knowl¬ edge of several important branches of science that bear directly upon a subject under consideration, and that a subject concerning the health and safety of many individuals, will render one intelligently self-dependent, and able at least to exercise without
X
PREFACE.
endangering one’s own health or the lives of others, the acquisition of such knowledge should not be neg¬ lected.
There are laws of mechanics and of physiology that directly concern the cyclist; it has been the author’s aim to point out these laws, showing, for instance, the possible dangers of exercise, and how they may be avoided by the application to bicycle exercise of simple and well-known physiological laws, thus enabling the cyclist to resist fatigue and avoid over-exertion. The needs of the bicyclist are an intelligent comprehension of the bicycle as a ma¬ chine, an appreciative knowledge of the human ma¬ chine that propels it, and a realization of the fact that rider and bicycle should form one combined mechanism. For this, a knowledge of the laws that determine the limits and possibilities of both me¬ chanisms is necessary. The cyclist is limited, not only by laws physiological and laws mechanical, which determine when and for how long he may travel, but he is restricted by the laws and ordinances of county, town and village as to how and where he may travel. A knowledge of these laws is also necessary.
While not attempting to treat any of these subjects exhaustively, the author has endeavored to place them comprehensively before her readers, hoping to prepare the enthusiast to enjoy all the delights of the sport, to encourage the timid, and to assist the in¬ experienced to define and determine existing limita¬ tions. The subject of the care of the bicycle has been carefully treated, some of the means at hand
PREFACE,
XI
suggested, and the necessary tool$and their uses ex¬ plained. Other topics considered are how the bicy¬ cle is propelled, and why it maintains its balance; what the cyclist should learn, how correct form may be attained and faults avoided, and what should be the essential features of the clothing worn.
The author wishes to acknowledge indebtedness to Dr. Legrange, and to Messrs. D. Appleton & Co. for their permission to quote from ‘ ‘ Physiology of Bodily Exercise.”
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE.
CHAPTER I.
Possibilities . . . . i
CHAPTER IE
What the Bicycle Does . 8
CHAPTER III.
On Wheels in General and Bicycles in Par¬ ticular . 14
CHAPTER IV.
For Beginners . 22
CHAPTER V.
How to Make Progress . 29
CHAPTER VI.
Helping and Teaching; What to Learn. ..... 37 CHAPTER VIE
A Few Things to Remember . . . 47
CHAPTER VIII.
The Art of Wheeling on a Bicycle . 56
CHAPTER IX.
Position and Power . 71
XIV CONTENTS - CONTINUED.
CHAPTER X .
Difficulties to Overcome . 82
CHAPTER XI.
Dress . 93
CHAPTER XII.
Watch and Cyclometer . 100
CHAPTER XIII
Women and Tools . .112
CHAPTER XIV.
Tools and How to Use Them . . 118
CHAPTER XV.
Solving a Problem . 125
CHAPTER XVI.
Where to Keep a Bicycle . 138
CHAPTER XVII.
Tires . 145
CHAPTER XVIII.
Mechanics of Bicycling . 156
CHAPTER XIX.
Adjustment . . 164
CHAPTER XX.
Exercise . 170
CHAPTER XXI.
Training . 175
CHAPTER XXII.
Breathlessness; The Limit Mechanical . 189
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Wheeling from the Peg — Showing In¬ clination of Wheel . . . Frontispiece
Correct Position — Leaning with the
Wheel . Opposite Page 22
Incorrect Position — Leaning Against
the Inclination .... “ “24
Proper Way to Stand a Bicycle . “ “30
Carrying the Bicycle . . . “ “32
Picking Up a Bicycle . . . . “ “34
Leading a Bicycle About ... “ “38
Preparing to Dismount . . . “ “40
Dismounting ...... “ “42
Correct Pedaling . “ “56
Following Pedal . “ “58
Lifting . . . “ “60
Back Pedaling . “ “62
Back Pedaling — Showing Distribution
of Weight . “ “64
Hill-Climbing — Pushing Crank Over . “ “66
Coasting . “ “72
Wheeling One Foot Over ... “ “74
Wheeling from the Peg — Showing Dis¬ tribution of Weight . . . “ “76
Preparing to Mount — Showing In¬ clination ...... “ “32
XVI
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS — CONTINUED.
|
Incorrect Mounting Position |
Opposite Page 84 |
||
|
Mounting — Preparatory Position |
4 4 |
86 |
|
|
Correct Mounting Position |
88 |
||
|
Mounting — Second Position- |
4 4 |
4 4 |
90 |
|
Dismounting Over the Wheel |
4 4 |
4 4 |
92 |
|
Mounting Over the Wheel from Peg . |
< < |
4 4 |
94 |
|
Starting a Nut . |
< < |
4 4 |
112 |
|
Adjusting a Wrench ..... |
4 i |
4 4 |
116 |
|
Applying Power . |
4 4 |
4 4 |
118 |
|
Screwing Up . |
4 < |
4 4 |
120 |
|
Unscrewung . |
4 < |
4 4 |
122 |
|
Preparing to Turn Bicycle Over |
< 4 |
4 4 |
126 |
|
Turning the Bicycle Over . |
4 4 |
4 4 |
128 |
|
The Bicycle Turned Over . |
t 4 |
4 ft |
130 |
|
Straightening the Handle-Bars . |
44 |
4 4 |
136 |
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
CHAPTER /.
Possibilities .
Bicycling is a modern sport, offering infinite variety and opportunity. As an exercise, at present unparalleled, it accomplishes much with compara¬ tively little expenditure of effort; as a relaxation, it has many desirable features; and its limitless possi¬ bilities, its future of usefulness, and the effect of its application to modern economic and social con¬ ditions, present a wide field for speculation.
Bicycling possesses many advantages, and is with ¬ in the reach of nearly all. For the athlete and the sportsman, it opens up new worlds; for the family it solves problems; for the tired and hurried worker, it has many possibilities. The benefits to be de¬ rived from the exercise cannot be ever-estimated and the dangers that result from over-doing are cor¬ respondingly great ; for it is easy to over-exert when exhilarated with exercise and unconscious of fatigue.
It is but recently that the bicycle has become a perfected mechanism, adaptable to general usage,
2
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
simple and scientific. The railroad makes possible direct and rapid communication between widely separated localities. The usefulness of the bicycle begins where that of the railroad ceases, for it con¬ nects and opens districts of country that the railroad has not reached; indeed, it is to the bicycle in con¬ nection with the railroads with which the country is gridironed that we must look to make possible the enjoyment of much that is beautiful and valuable, but otherwise inaccessible. To the naturalist, the traveller, and the intelligent observer, cycling offers advantages which are limited only by time and opportunity.
Bicycling has been adapted to serve many pur¬ poses; but it is bicycling as an athletic exercise and sport, with the bicycle propelled by human power only, that we shall now consider. The history of the bicycle is modern. The study of its evolution shows the development of a great industry, constantly in¬ troducing and applying improvements; most impor¬ tant of these was the pneumatic tire, which made bicycling universally possible.
Getting under way for even a short cruise awheel has some of the features familiar to the yachtsman. To the skater, the motion is not unlike the rapid, swaying movement on the ice, the silence and the rush of succeeding strokes. To the horseman, the dissimilarity of the two modes of locomotion, after the settling to work has been accomplished, is very striking. For the uninitiated and for some others, bicycling does not possess attractions. The bicycle is a familiar object, not compelling a second thought.
POSSIBILITIES .
3
One reason for this is that it is not really brought to the intelligent notice of the casual passer. The cyclist, to the stationary observer or the compara¬ tively stationary pedestrian, is such a fleeting instan- taneosity that, unless thrown among enthusiasts over the sport, few of the unenlightened would be tempted to try it; for they are as unappreciative of what the wheel means to the cyclist as is the coun¬ tryman, who lives near a railway, of the intricacies of commerce which are indicated by the flying mail.
To the lover of out-door life the bicycle presents a succession of wonderful possibilities. Much has been written of canoe-trips and of the charms of cruising among our inland waters; as charming and as attractive is land travel on the wheel. Bicycling, moreover, combines the best features of many other sports with advantages peculiar to it, for instance, the cyclist must work, and there is much pleasure in watching progress made with so little effort — the work all his own, the machine but a means of loco¬ motion — enjoying and appreciating all the beauties of the country traversed, while yet conscious of the power to hasten away as soon as the surroundings cease to interest or amuse. By the scientist and the naturalist, no encouragement is needed; the bicycle at once compels their attention. The lover of horses may fear that this new mode of locomotion may interfere with his sport — the same objection that was advanced against the introduction of the steam engine. But the bicycle does not displace; it is rather a link in the chain connecting driving and railroading. Bicycling, furthermore, means good
4
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
roads, not as a luxury, but as a necessity, for it is impossible without them. Rough country may be crossed, but the bicycle must be pushed or carried across it, and this is not practicable for any consid¬ erable distance.
The bicycle, though a simple machine, is a com¬ plicated mechanism simplified. The principle that keeps it from falling is a well-known one — that of the gyroscope, the only known mechanism that over¬ comes gravity.
The bicycle has its limits, determined by the powers of its rider and the surface ridden over. The motion is unquestionably fascinating after the con¬ trol of the machine is acquired; and there is an ac¬ companying exhilaration that is peculiar to the sport, and always something to conquer, something to accomplish, besides the direct benefit to be derived from the exercise.
There is a great variety of methods of bicycling, whether for exercise, transportation or travel. In travelling, the country all about soon becomes, as it were, your own domain. Instead of a few squares, you know several towns; instead of an acquaintance with the county for a few miles about, you can claim familiarity with two or three counties; an all¬ day expedition is reduced to a matter of a couple of hours; and unless a break-down occurs, you are at all times independent. This absolute freedom of the cyclist can be known only to the initiated, and as proficiency is acquired, it becomes a most at¬ tractive feature of the sport.
There is bicycling weather, as there is skating
POSSIBILITIES .
5
weather, yachting weather, or weather favorable for any out-door sport or exercise. But it is easy to wait for bicycling weather, and nothing has to make way for it. The machine is always ready, and that is all that is needed if a suitable country is acces¬ sible. On the road the bicyclist is rendered inde¬ pendent of assistance, for everything needful is pre¬ pared for him, and parts and repair supplies can be carried and need but little room. Only inattention or carelessness should cause delay. Still, proper preparation is essential to enjoy bicycling at its best, and the bicyclist should be ready to meet any emer¬ gency.
That there is necessarily the element of sociability about cycling is evident. There are so many stops, and the dusty wheelmen grouped among their wheels at the roadside have always the bond of a common interest; from this, transition to individual fads and fancies is easy; there is constant opportu¬ nity for acquiring special knowledge and for using it; and almost every accomplishment is appreciated in addition to capability as a bicyclist, and may be utilized in a variety of ways; cheerfulness is an in¬ variable factor; and there is always novelty and the possibilit3r of excitement, for it is unusual, on a bi¬ cycle trip, that everything happens as it is expected or has been planned for.
Too much cannot be said of the benefits to be de¬ rived from out-door exercise; and one of the best features of bicycling is that it brings so many to en- 303^ out-door life who would otherwise have little of either fresh air or exercise. Proper oxidation is
6
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
necessary to perfect health. The great danger that these would-be bicyclists must face is unfamiliarity with exercise, either general or special. Persons ac¬ customed to athletic exercise know how to prepare for and how to resist fatigue, know what practice means and how proficiency may be attained. The bicyclist unaccustomed to athletics has all this to learn, and more; to him, ultimate success means more time given to study and less time to practice. The novice, however, has the advantage that he has nothing to unlearn, and can profit by the experience of others.
To accomplish the best results, the human ma¬ chine must not be overworked; and to stop work at the right moment is one of the hardest things to learn, and the most important to success. To learn the construction of a bicycle, the particular duties of all the parts and their adjustment, is a matter of memory and observation. To understand the adjust¬ ment of the human machine to mechanical environ¬ ment requires cultivated perception and special knowledge. But the human machine is so indepen¬ dently adaptable, so hard to put out of order, that it may be cared for by intelligent attention to only a few simple laws. Do not wait for danger signals: know how to avoid them.
Bicycling opens a delightful future to all who at¬ tempt it intelligently. The inspiration of the enthu¬ siast is invaluable ; but it is the practical theorist who is succesful.
A bright, sunny morning, fresh and cool; good roads and a dry atmosphere; a beautiful country be-
POSSIBILITIES .
7
fore you, all your own to see and to enjoy; a proper¬ ly adjusted wheel awaiting you, — what more delight¬ ful than to mount and speed away, the whirr of the wheels, the soft grit of the tire, an occasional chain- clank the only sounds added to the chorus of the morning, as, the pace attained, the road stretches away before you !
CHAPTER II.
What the Bicycle Hoes.
The bicycle has been evolved — a mechanism, pro¬ pelled solely by human power, capable of quadru¬ pling the distance traversable by the pedestrian.
The simple, light, and almost universally ac¬ cepted machine is constructed to stand a strain tre¬ mendous in proportion to its weight; for the modern machine weighs only twenty pounds, and it may be lighter, though for some purposes it should be heavier. The bicyclist is virtually mounted on a set of casters, which propels the weight with much greater ease than can be attained in the act of walk¬ ing. In walking, advantage is taken of the force of gravity by continually falling forward, and simul¬ taneously placing the feet, with a regular motion, one beyond the other, to alternately receive the weight of the body. On the bicycle, the weight is carried and supported, and the wheels reduce fric¬ tion to a minimum.
The wheel being set in motion, power is applied to overcome inertia, and speed is increased by multiplying the number of the wheel’s revolu¬ tions; the application of the gyroscope principle assists materially, and the resistance of gravity is
WH A '1 THE BICYCLE DOES.
9
overcome in a degree while the wheels are rapidly revolving.
To set a bicycle in motion requires the expendi¬ ture of considerable power. A given rate of speed on the level may be maintained by a minimum ex¬ penditure of power. Bodies or masses set in motion maintain their velocity undiminished unless other forces intervene. The bicycle in motion is resisted on the level by air pressure and friction, on the roadway by friction, and by the incidental obstacles of the road. On an ascending plane, it must over¬ come the additional resistance of its own and its rider’s weight, which must be lifted constantly ; on a descending plane, it must oppose a constantly les¬ sening resistance. All this resistance and lack of resistance means a proportionate stress laid upon the bicycle, the wheels of which are all the while kept rapidly revolving, the large wheels moving much faster than the cranks and pedals.
Each separate part of a bicycle must be made capable of withstanding a certain wear and strain, and must perform its own particular duties and work in conjunction with all other parts of the machine. To this end, it has been studied, per¬ fected, tested; its weight and tensile strength calcu¬ lated to a nicety; its finish and adjustment made matters of deep thought and careful investigation.
Only the best can be made to do in bicycle manu¬ facture; each piece of metal must be separately tested, and the maximum of strength with the mini¬ mum of weight must be attained. What is known as the safety factor enters largely into the construe-
IO BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
tion of the modern bicycle; that is, the machine is made much stronger than is necessary for the strain it is expected to withstand; this added strength in¬ volving of course the added weight of the material which supplies it. The calculated strength of a ma¬ chine is the strength which fits it adequately to per¬ form its work. When, as in the bicycle, the accu¬ rate testing by skilled workmen proves the existence of this degree of strength, the safety factor mean¬ while being reduced to the lowest possible limit, the product is the perfected result of the highest degree of skill. Each part is tested for so many pounds strain or tension or compression, and each strain is accurately figured for each particular part; each part, moreover, must be able to stand so much additional strain, more than it is ever likely to have thrown upon it, though no bicycle is built to withstand the shock of collision under speed. In case of collision, the older, heavy bicycle was not smashed into frag¬ ments, as is the modern twenty-pounder. Some¬ thing would give way, perhaps; it might break in several places. The light modern wheel holds to¬ gether or is crushed to pieces, though its rider is less likely to suffer serious injury, the lighter construction having less power to do damage than the cumbrous wheel of fifty or sixty pounds weight.
The cost of a well-made bicycle, of perfect work¬ manship and finish, represents the amount of skilled labor required to construct it rather than the value of the raw material, although, when it is remembered that each part must be tough, hard, strong and
WHAT THE BICYCLE DOES. n
elastic, it will be apparent that only the best of material can be used.
Wheels can be made at a very low cost; but such wheels cannot be correctly adjusted and tested with¬ out the additional cost of skilled labor. For the pro¬ duction of a perfect bicycle, the machine of tested strength, simplicity of detail, and beauty of finish, the most accurate workmanship as well as the best material. is necessary. A machine or a tool should always be the best of its kind, and it pays to take care of it. A bicycle requires as nice and accurate adjustment as a watch, and like a watch, with regular attention afterwards, will run steadily and smooth¬ ly. A bicycle, moreover, as much or more than a watch, is individual property, and each individual wants the best.
Our physical powers have been tested in certain directions; in walking, for instance, we know what we can do, how far we can go, how much it is wise to attempt. The bicycle appeals to us as a means of swift locomotion attained without other force than our own powers four or five times multiplied by mechanical processes. The bicycle enables one to do, to prove one’s powers; it puts one in conceit with one’s self. When one is not a pedestrian, does not care for equestrian pleasures — and, indeed, in the majority of cases, there is little to compel at¬ tention to these means of recreation — the bicycle offers the opportunity to find the limit of one’s powers in a new field. It supplies, too, a new pleasure — the pleasure of going where one wills, because one wills. The attention has only to be di-
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
I 2
rected, and the wheel, responsive to touch or thought, moves in unison with the rider’s will, flitting hither and thither, that he may enjoy the freshness of nature and the ever-changing beauty of clouds and sky, of sunshine and shadow, of meadow and sea, lake and river, mountain and forest.
Riding the wheel, our own powers are revealed to us, a new sense is seemingly created. The unobserv¬ ing are gradually awakened, and the keen observer is thrilled with quick and rare delight. The system is invigorated, the spirit is refreshed, the mind, freed from care, swept of dusty cobwebs, is filled with new and beautiful impressions. You have con¬ quered a new world, and exultingly you take pos¬ session of it.
Travelling by vehicle or by any public convey¬ ance, the sense of individual responsibility is re¬ duced to the minimum; it is indeed no appreciable factor. You pay so much to be taken up and set down, so much for a reasonable amount of safety, comfort, and convenience. Mounted on a wheel, you feel at once the keenest sense of responsibility. You are there to do as you will within reasonable limits; you are continually being called upon to judge and to determine points that before have not needed your consideration, and consequently you become alert, active, quick-sighted, and keenly alive as well to the rights of others as to what is due your¬ self. You are responsible to yourself for your¬ self; you are responsible to the public for your¬ self; and you are responsible to the public for
WHAT THE BICYCLE DOES.
13
the rights of others. The upholding of laws and ordinances, the general welfare, public health and safety — problems never before, per¬ haps, called to your attention— come up one by one for consideration. In short, individual duty, recognition of the rights of others, consideration of means for the proper enforcing of laws, all are sug¬ gested to the awakening mind of the bicyclist. The bicycle is an educational factor, subtle and far-reach¬ ing, creating the desire for progress, the preference for what is better, the striving for the best, broaden¬ ing the intelligence and intensifying love of home and country. For all that is beautiful is ours — ours to protect and to cherish.
To the many who earnestly wish to be actively at work in the world, the opportunity has come; they need but to come face to face with it to solve this problem of something to conquer, something to achieve.
CHAPTER III .
On Wheels in General and Bicycles in Particular .
The form of the wheel is very ancient, its con¬ struction modern, even recent. Its evolution has been gradual. First came the round stick or roller, placed beneath a weight; then a roller with its cen¬ tral portion shaped and thinned to lessen friction ; then two disk-shaped sections of a log, connected by a bar upon which they revolved, replaced the clumsy stick.
Each wheel or disk then began to receive separate attention. There was the wear on the edge or rim to be considered, and it was found that if its surface were protected, the disk would last indefinitely long¬ er. Then it was noticed that the hole in the centre of the disk wore unevenly, and it was reinforced, and the hub began to take form. When the rim was strong and the central portion of the wheel remained intact, the disk was found to be heavier and stronger than it need to be to support the outer portion of the wheel. Some of the useless heavy part was removed, and the disk pierced with holes to make it lighter; then these holes were shaped between the remaining portions, which took the form of pillars or spokes. A pillar would break, and be replaced by a rounded
WHEELS IN GENERAL. I 5
stick; and thus, perhaps, the rude idea took form of constructing a wheel out of several pieces, for the sake of securing economy, durability, and lightness.
A wheel, then, was well constructed, with a large, heavy piece in the centre to stand friction and bear weight, and with the rim made of several pieces, each piece supported on a spoke, and all held together by a band called a tire. In the course of time the hub became heavier, the spokes thinner, the rim strong¬ er and lighter, and the tire narrower. The bar con¬ necting two wheels was made very strong, with smooth ends for the wheels to revolve easily upon. Pins were driven into holes in the projecting ends of the axle, or bar, and later the pins replaced by knobs, or nuts. Then the wheels were brought closer together, and found to run more easily; and the tire, cutting too deep into soft surfaces, was widened. Attention, moreover, was paid to the road¬ way, very bad places being filled and smoothed.
A wheel is defined as “a circular frame turning on an axle”; an axle as “a shaft or rod, either solid or hollow, on which a wheel is placed.” The first bicycle wheels were constructed like carriage wheels, the limit of that method of construction arrived at. The rim was supported on the spokes, which rested on the hub. The minimum definite quantity of ma¬ terial was ascertained, but the wheel was still too heavy and bulky. If the weight of material was les¬ sened, however, it would fall to pieces.
The bicycle wheel of to-day is a compound mechan¬ ism constructed on reverse principles. The wheel is made on the principle of suspension, an inverted
l 6 BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
application of weight and thrust. The hub is hung from the rim, and the axle supported in that way. Each bicycle wheel is really two wheels, graceful in form, with but one rim, and with two hubs, one on either end of a short axle, the spokes being drawn to a common rim, and made stiff enough to carry weight, and elastic enough to withstand shock. The rim or frame is elastic and durable. To this rim many wire spokes are fastened, and the hubs for each wheel are centred and hung from them. The hubs and axle are wider than the rim of the wheel, and the spokes are fastened alternately to either end, thus giving a tangent strain which stiffens the wheel and gives it strength. The tire is a separate construction, possessing several individual features. The only office of the old tire was to pro¬ tect the rim of the wheel from wear; the pneumatic tire protects the rim, presents a good friction sur¬ face, and is enabled by its elasticity to take the shock and jar of the entire bicycle.
In order that the wheel may turn, the axle must be lubricated; otherwise the inside of the hub will become hot, and wear the face of the axle a little rough. The surfaces then cannot pass, but remain fixed and immovable, and the wheel cannot turn. The introduction of a third material of a different consistency between the revolving surfaces prevents their wearing against each other, and the lubricant is rubbed and rubbed again; there is so little of the lubricant that it does not accumulate sufficiently to cause resistance, and the moving surfaces slip smoothly over each other.
WHEELS IN GENERA L.
17
The axle of a modern bicycle wheel is compound, and although there are two ends to the axle, there is but one rim to the wheel. The rim carries all the weight distributed from many points at once; the weights resist each other, and give strength and stiffness. The axle really carries double, two wheels with but one rim; and each end of the axle is supported at so many points that it possesses great weight-carrying power in proportion to the weight of material used in its construction. The weight of the frame is supported on the axles of the rear and front wheels. Of its construction it is suffi¬ cient to say that the weight is taken up on the thrust principle and that wherever a point of sup¬ port for the thrust is located, the frame is strength¬ ened to support and resist the thrust.
By a mechanical application of power, the power of the pressure of the foot on the pedal is multiplied, one revolution of the pedal crank causing the rear wheel to revolve a number of times. In the chain gear the mechanical means is a large wheel on the axle to which the pedal cranks are attached, and a smaller wheel on the axle of the rear wheel. There are teeth on both these wheels, the large wheel hav¬ ing the greater number. The band or chain passing over the large sprocket-wheel has links which en¬ gage each tooth of the wheel as the chain passes over it, and as that wheel revolves, it pulls the chain over, link by link.
The small wheel is also provided with teeth, and every time the large sprocket-wheel is turned, if only a little way, it pulls the chain link by link, and
1 8 BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
the chain link by link pulls the rear wheel tooth by tooth. The small sprocket-wheel revolves as the chain pulls it, revolving oftener than the large wheel to keep count with it tooth for tooth. The number of teeth on the sprocket-wheels determines the multi¬ plicity of revolutions of the rear wheel.
The rear wheel revolves very rapidly, in the pro¬ cess becoming virtually a gyroscope; and a gyro¬ scope will maintain the plane in which it revolves unless other forces intervene. The front wheel takes its motion from the friction of the surface over which it is propelled, and after the bicycle is in mo¬ tion, the forces that are applied to control and direct its movement are friction and resistance. After the cyclist is mounted, there is the added complication of a constantly shifting centre of gravity, caused by change of balance. The steering is effected by changing the direction of the front wheel, the rear wheel being enabled to follow by a slight slipping over the wheeling surface. If the change of direc¬ tion is too abrupt, the rear wheel will slip enough to lose its hold on the surface, and the weight of the rider will be suddenly shifted from above the point of support (the axle of the rear wheel) to the top of the rim of the wheel, thus becoming a lever with the weight on the end of the long arm, and the bicycle falls over.
As the wheels revolve, there is a constant pull on tire and rim. Just as the chain is pulled over the sprocket-wheels, the tire is pulled by friction over the surface ridden on. If this surface affords the tire no hold, it is impossible for the wheel to ad-
WHEELS IN GENERAL.
19
vance, as on a muddy surface. The crank may im¬ part a motion to the wheel, but this motion will not enable the wheel to maintain its place; or if, in overcoming the cranks at the dead centre, too much weight is applied to one side of the wheel, the same thing occurs, and the wheel falls over. There are a number of mechanical means for conveying the mo¬ tion of the foot to the wheel of the bicycle to cause the wheels to revolve.
There are many ways of constructing a frame, and different designs and patterns of fittings for different parts; but the main idea of the bicycle does not change — a fixed wheel to which motion is im¬ parted, and a movable or guiding wheel, indepen¬ dent of the power wheel, and revolving only because the machine is pushed or pulled forward. This second wheel gives stability, and supports the wheel at a movable point.
We have, therefore, a wheel which supports a frame and the weight it carries. The frame is sup¬ ported on two wheels, one end of the frame taking the weight, and that end supported on one wheel. The second wheel merely supports one end of the frame. If the frame were attached at one end di¬ rectly and rigidly to the second wheel, the weight carrying wheel would move in the same plane with it. A child’s two-wheeled cart will illustrate this. While moving forward in a straight line, the child is safe until one or both of the wheels begin to travel in a rut, when the rigid handle or tongue of the cart resists the guiding power, and the child is pulled or thrown over. If the tongue or frame of the wagon
20
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
is allowed play, as it is called, say by being held easily in the hand, the pole may be guided. The supported end of the frame of the bicycle corres¬ ponds to the pole or tongue of the cart.
Now, the wheel is made to steer in this way: We have the rigid forks, and a wheel to support them. The forks hold the wheel in the same plane as themselves, but the top part of each fork, instead of being fastened immovably to the frame, passes up through a bearing-head prepared for it in the frame. The wheel is supported, but it can now maintain a separate plane, and as the post of the forks changes its direction, it pulls the frame with it as it advances; and so the controlling or steering power is transferred.
The weight-bearing wheel is led and directed; part of its power is transferred by thrust or push to the front wheel, and as the steering wheel is pushed over the surface, it revolves. As it revolves, part of its power is diverted by the movable head, and as the head is held and controlled by the rider, any de¬ sired direction may be imparted to the entire machine.
A bicycle may have either a diamond frame or a drop frame. The drop frame is made to facilitate mounting and to permit the adjustment of a woman’s dress. The diamond frame possesses great strength, and can be lightened to a wonderful degree without injury to the thrust and strain-bearing quality of its construction.
A form of triangle is made use of to carry the greatest weight and bear the greatest strain. This
WHEELS IN GENERAL . 21
triangle is supported on the rear wheel, and has part of the frame attached to it to connect it with the steering-wheel. The steering-wheel is provided with handles by which it may be controlled. The weight of the rider is carried over the power wheel, and the propelling power, a lever movement, is im¬ parted by the foot.
From this description an idea may be formed of how and why a bicycle works; but the details of its mechanism are of endless variety of form and pat¬ tern, material and workmanship. Each small part, its form, its use, its angles of surface, its every de¬ tail indeed, is the product of the work of many minds for many years. And though the bicycle was looked for, and hoped for, and worked for, its general acceptance came suddenly, and came only when it had been built light enough and strong enough and elastic enough to warrant confidence in its universal usage.
CHAPTER IV .
For Beginners.
Mount and away! How easy it seems. To the novice it is not as easy as it looks, yet everyone, or almost everyone, can learn to ride, though there are different ways of going about it. Unless the begin¬ ner is one of those fortunate beings who mount, and as it were, wheel at sight, little need be said about instruction at this stage of proceedings if a bicycle school is within reach. A few suggestions may be desirable, however, even with a competent in¬ structor.
Nothing more quickly exhausts one’s strength than the first few minutes with a bicycle. This is due to the fact that many unused muscles are called upon to do unaccustomed work and to work together in new combinations; and the effort required and the accompanying nervous excitement produce a sudden and apparently unaccountable fatigue. Nor¬ mal conditions can be restored by resting long enough to allow repair of the wasted tissues. It is well to stop when a little tired, rather than to persist and finish the lesson, even if extra lessons are neces¬ sary to make up for lost time. No one can really learn anything when tired, and it is unwise to at-
FOR BEGINNERS.
23
tempt it. In this matter no one else can judge for you.
What a horrible moment it is when first mounted on a bicycle, a mere machine, a thing quite beyond your control, and unable even to stand by itself. But it is impossible to tell without trying whether or not you can manage a bicycle. Make the experi¬ ment, therefore, and find out. Any competent teacher will guarantee success, and after the first five minutes on the bicycle can tell how long it will take you to learn. The time varies with the indi¬ vidual; the period of instruction may last for five minutes or for six months, without counting extra lessons for fancy wheeling.
Don’t try to get the better of your wheel. You cannot teach it anything, and there is really much for you to learn.
What to keep in mind when taking your lesson. — Attend to the bicycle and to nothing else. Don’t attempt to talk, and look well ahead of the machine, certainly not less than twenty feet. Remember that the bicycle will go wherever the attention is directed.
In sitting upon the wheel, the spinal column should maintain the same vertical plane that the rear wheel does, and should not bend laterally to balance in the usual manner. A new balance must be acquired, and other muscular combinations than those that are familiarly called upon. To wheel by rule is the better plan until the natural balance of the bicyclist is developed. Sit erect and sit still.
The bicycle must be kept from falling by a wig-
24
BICYCLING FOR LADIES .
gling movement of the front wheel, conveyed by means of the handle-bar. When moving, the rapidly revolving wheels maintain the vertical plane by ro¬ tation, with but little assistance or correction from the handle-bars.
It is a good plan, while the instructor assists you, to pedal with one foot at a time, holding the other foot free. This will enable you to determine the amount of pressure it is necessary to exert to cause the wheels to revolve.
When both feet are on the pedals, they oppose each other. The weight should be lifted from the ascending pedal, or else the descending foot must push the other foot up until that foot is in position to exert a downward pressure. This instruction ap¬ plies to forward pedaling only; for back pedaling or backing, the movement should be reversed. Prac* tise pushing first with one foot and then with the other, taking the weight off the opposite pedal in each case. At each push of the pedal, a little pull on the handle-bars, pulling with the hand on the same side on which you are pushing with the foot, will keep the wheel from falling. Look well ahead. The bicycle covers the ground very rapidly, and the eye does not at first receive impressions quickly enough to enable you to know where to look and what to look for.
As soon as your teacher will allow it, take the wheel for a little walk. This may seem rather an absurd proceeding, but it will assist you greatly in learning the feel and tendencies of the machine. Lead the bicycle about carefully, holding the
INCORRECT POSITION — LEANING AGAINST THE INCLINATION
FOR BEGINNERS.
25
handles with both hands and avoiding the revolving pedals. Learn to stand it up, to turn it quickly, and to back it in a limited space.
The machine heretofore has been arranged for you. Now you can begin to think how you would like to have it adjusted. You will, perhaps, find fault with the saddle. The saddle is a very important adjunct, and much depends upon its proper adjustment. A large, soft saddle is usually preferred by the begin¬ ner, and perhaps this is a good kind to learn to balance on; but it is a very poor kind to wheel on, for many reasons.
At first, in practising pedaling, the height of the saddle should permit the hollow of the foot to rest firmly on the pedal when the pedal is lowest. The ball of the foot only should press on the pedal. The foot should be made to follow the pedal as early as possible. Point the toe downward on the last half of the down stroke, and keep pointing it until the pedal is at its lowest, following the pedal with the foot, and pointing downward until the pedal is half way on the up stroke. This carries the crank past the dead centre. To acquire a proper method, atten¬ tion should be directed to each foot alternately.
To learn to balance, have the saddle raised as high as possible, so that the ball of the foot just touches the pedal at its lowest. Practise wheeling in this way, with an instructor, or alone on a smooth sur¬ face where you are sure to be undisturbed.
The hands naturally take a position where it is easy to grasp the handles of the handle-bars. The handle-bar conveys two principal movements to the
26
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
first wheel — a short wiggling movement and a long or steering sweep. The handle-bars also assist in maintaining the seat at first.
The beginner usually exerts too much pressure bn the pedals, and has to pull correspondingly hard on the handles to correct the falling tendency of the machine. This is very hard work, and stiff arms and shoulders and blistered hands may be often thus ac¬ counted for; they are the result of badly balanced pedaling. To be able to sit comfortably at work, and to feel that it is not so hard after all, is a great advance.
Now, the question of that other foot. By this time which “the other foot” is will have become quite evident; it is always the foot to which attention for the moment is not directed, and which consequently may meet unexpected disaster — a lost pedal, per¬ haps, with its accompanying inconveniences.
Downward pressure with the foot is easily ac¬ quired and needs little effort. To take the pressure off the ascending pedal at the right moment is a more difficult matter. Usually considerable practice in cycling is necessary before the unused lifting muscles are strengthened sufficiently by exercise to permit them to do their work easily.
There is a third movement of the handle-bars — a quick twist in the direction the machine is leaning if about to fall; it is made suddenly, and brings the wheel back to its original position. If the wheel were stationary, and the front wheel were turned, the bicycle would fall in an opposite direction from the front wheel. If the wheel is about to fall, it can
FOR BEGINNERS .
27
be prevented from doing so by throwing the balance the other way by means of the handle-bars. A similar result is accomplished by wiggling the front wheel, and when a bicycle is moving very slowly, a continuous wiggle — changing the balance as the ma¬ chine inclines from side to side — is necessary to keep it upright.
The body should incline with the rear wheel and maintain the same plane with it, becoming as much as possible a part of the wheel, as though united by a straight bar going from the base of the tire to the top of the head.
The rear wheel and all the weight that it carries is governed by the front wheel and controlled by means of the handle-bars. The rear wheel support¬ ing all the rider’s weight, the power is applied to that wheel. The front wheel serves only for balance and steering.
It is not necessary to provide a complete outfit to take the first lesson. If you possess a pair of knick¬ erbockers, so much the better. Wear an old dress, easy shoes and gloves, and a hat that will stay on un¬ der any conditions. The clothing should be as loose as possible about the waist. Wear flannels, and no tight bands of any kind or anything elastic. As respiration is increased by the exercise, the cloth¬ ing should be loose enough to allow of a long deep breath, drawn easily, taken by expanding the chest at the lower ribs to fill the lungs. This precaution being taken, giddiness and short-windedness can re¬ sult only from over-exercise. Ten or fifteen minutes’ practise is enough at first; and a half
28
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
hour’s lesson later, with several stops for rest, is the best rule for many people, particularly those unac¬ customed to active exercise.
If you are an equestrian, you will meet with many unexpected problems. The bicycle will do nothing for you, and the lack of horse-sense must be supplied by your own intelligence. It is well, when learning, to remove all bicycle accessories. They are only in the way, and add weight and distract the attention. The propelling of the bicycle — that is the one idea to keep in mind. Make the machine go; shove it along. Never mind if you are not quite comfortable or at ease at first. Sit on your saddle and stay there. Do not try to balance the machine. Lean the way the machine inclines, not away from it, as it will be your first impulse to do. The bicycle is not to be fought against; it is to be propelled and controlled; and the art is not difficult to acquire.
Avoid starting a bicycle on a down grade when you are learning. For on a slight, even an almost im¬ perceptible incline, the cycler must back-pedal; but the beginner wishes to propel the bicycle, and for that purpose must use an altogether different muscu¬ lar combination.
CHAPTER V.
How to Make Progress .
You have learned to wheel a bicycle, — have had some lessons, can take the machine and mount it, wheel a little way, and fall off ; or can wheel for some time without a dismount, but feel utterly exhausted after a short spin. You have accomplished what you attempted, — you can wheel a bicycle; but you feel dissatisfied. You have tried to ride with friends, perhaps, and have had to give it up; yet you feel that you should be able to do what others have done and are doing all the time. It is very discouraging.
What you should have now is a suitable and com¬ fortable wheeling outfit. You perhaps have a bicy¬ cle of your own; if not, a good wheel may be hired reasonably. The matter of dress is now all-impor¬ tant, and a costume suitable for cycling should be selected; it is impossible to do good work or to prac¬ tise comfortably unless you are properly dressed.
Choose for a practice ride a pleasant day, with little or no wind, and neither too hot nor too cold. The atmospheric conditions are an important factor in bicycling; indeed, beginners are often discour¬ aged by external conditions which really have noth-
30
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
ing to do with their mastery of the machine. Take the bicycle out on a smooth road, where you may have two or three miles free from traffic, and as level as possible. If the road is muddy or slippery, wait for the proper conditions. Unless the surface is smooth and dry, it is better to take the bicycle back without attempting to mount it. If two or three miles of good road are not accessible, a quarter-mile stretch or even less will serve. Select a good path¬ way, however short.
See that the wheel is adjusted to suit you ; the sad¬ dle of a comfortable height, certainty not too high; the handle-bars convenient to grasp. Assure your¬ self that all the nuts are secure, the saddle and handle-bars firm. Spin the pedals to see that they revolve easily. Make up your mind before mount¬ ing how far you want to go; mount the machine, wheel it for this distance, and dismount. Do not try to look about while wheeling. Give your whole attention to the bicycle and keep your eyes fixed in the direction you are travelling. Avoid hollows and cart-ruts, though these should not occur if the lo¬ cality for practice is well chosen. If an unexpected hollow or hump should be encountered, hold hard to the handle-bars and press firmly on the pedals, ris¬ ing at the same time a little from the saddle. The pedals are most important parts, the controlling power being centred in them. If there is a good hand-brake on the bicycle, it is well to note its action and to understand how to apply it; for in case of a lost pedal, its application might give a little confi¬ dence. By a “lost pedal” is meant, not that part of
PROPER WAY TO STAND A BICYCLE.
HOW TO MAKE PROGRESS.
the machine is literally lost, but that the foothold is missed on it, and so control of the wheel lost for the moment.
If out of breath, wait until rested. Rest for a few /ninutes in any case, and look about, and note the surface wheeled over. Then plan another spin, of perhaps a few hundred feet. Fix upon an objective point, wheel to it, and dismount. Rest thoroughly, and mount again. Be careful to avoid becoming chilled while resting, stopping only long enough to restore the natural breathing and to look over the road.
Half an hour of this kind of work at first every suitable day is enough. If you are strong and accus¬ tomed to active exercise, the time may be prolonged to an hour or an hour and a half; or you may prac¬ tise twice daily, morning and afternoon, or after¬ noon and evening. Cycling weather is an uncertain quantity, and all possible advantages should be tak¬ en of it. If tired after the first day’s practice, do not attempt to resume it until entirely rested, even if it is necessary to wait for two or three days; for unless the wheel is well understood and the wheeler fairly practised, it is hard work. The practised cy¬ clist controls the bicycle without conscious effort, and may direct his attention to his surroundings; but the novice must concentrate his attention on his machine.
A bicycle should always be handled carefully; for though it is made strong enough for the emergencies of being thrown and pulled and twisted, none of these things improve it. Keep the polish free from
32
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
scratches, and the more delicate parts free from dents. Do not let the bicycle fall or throw it down carelessly. Learn to balance it against a curb or post or fence or any other convenient object, with¬ out injury to the bicycle or to the supporting surface.
A bicycle will balance in this way: The front wheel kept from moving at either the tire or the centre of the frame; the pedal resting against some firm object.
Do not wheel near anything, but give yourself as much room as possible. A practised cyclist can take a bicycle wherever it is possible to walk, but it is sometimes a feat to do this.
The proper position cannot be too soon acquired. Sit erect and not too far from the handle-bars. Let the hands grasp the handles in an easy, natural position. The saddle should be quite over the pedals to give a natural movement, forward, down, back, and up. The bicycle is sensitive, and yields to almost unconscious direction; but if the eye is not trained to judge distances, steering will be diffi¬ cult at first. It is necessary to look well ahead, to decide quickly what you will do, and to do it. Pedal fast, but do not hurry. Don’t try to find out how fast you can go. This is not a good time for such an experiment; it will be easy later to test your speed. Pedal fast enough to keep the machine run¬ ning easily and smoothly and to feel it take care of itself a little. It is easier to guide and control it when it is in motion with the wheels rolling rapidly.
It is not a good plan to select a very light wheel for practice. The tendencies and the peculiarities
CARRYING THE BICYCLE.
HO W TO MAKE PROGRESS.
33
of the bicycle are more readily determined when there is a little weight to resist. Be careful to wear nothing tight, particularly shoes, gloves, waistband, or hat; for they might prove a source of discomfort or even danger.
Learn to steady the bicycle as soon as you can. It will wiggle and wobble from a number of causes. The front wheel must be kept steady. Wobbling results from losing the sense of direction for a mo¬ ment. To overcome the difficulty, either stop and dismount, or, if it is possible, increase your speed.
Before taking a bicycle out, have any oil that may have settled on the outside of the bearings wiped off, and add a little fresh oil to the oil-cups. The chain or power gear should be lubricated, and any superfluous lubricant carefully removed. The ease with which the bicycle runs depends on proper clean¬ ing and oiling; an illy cared for or badly oiled ma¬ chine, moreover, is very unpleasant to handle.
A course of practice will inspire confidence, and wobbling will occur less and less frequently. Then the inequalities of surface will be noticed, and the cyclist will wonder why it is harder to wheel in some places and in certain directions. Parts of the road are covered, the wheeler being almost unconscious of exerting any force, and again in places the foot seems to be pushed up. Ease and comfort in wheel¬ ing are dependent to a large degree on the wind and to a much larger degree on the grades and hills. A very little grade, a very slight rise, quite unnctice- able to the pedestrian, is disagreeably obvious to the bicyclist. The difficulty presented may be over-
34
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
come by pushing on the pedal at the right place as it descends, and at the right time, time and place being also adjusted to the weight and power of the bicyclist. To push at just the right time on a grade assures an easy ascent. Any difficulty in pedaling may be traced to a wrong application of power.
Hill-climbing and grade work require thought and practice. Do not be discouraged because a little bit of a hill seems quite impossible. Overcoming grades is no easy matter, and is usually learned slow¬ ly; every time a grade is attempted, however, some progress is made. Wheel as far as it is possible to go comfortably; then dismount, and walk the rest of the way. Never try to mount on an up grade un¬ less you are expert, for this is a difficult and most fatiguing thing to do. When mounting, notice the grade, and if it is downward, do not have the mount¬ ing pedal at its full height; and select a clear place to mount in. If an up grade must be wheeled over, it is often advisable to mount in a downward direc¬ tion, wheel far enough for a start, and then turn to ascend without dismounting. Learn to pedal slow¬ ly and steadily and to start and stop easily. These things may be practised at convenient times, and with sufficient practice will be mastered, but mean¬ while need keep no one from attempting a moderate¬ ly long run.
Uncertain attempts at mounting are very fatigu¬ ing. Get some one to mount and start you when off for the first long outings ; the energ}^ saved can be better utilized in wheeling. Do not be afraid to wheel over small inequalities if their direction is at
PICKING UP A BICYCLE.
I-IOW TO MAKE PROGRESS.
35
right angles to the direction of the bicycle; but avoid all ruts and depressions parallel with the wheel’s direction. It is easy to slip into them, and difficult to get out of them without a spill.
Never eat a full meal before starting on a bicycle trip; if possible, set the time for starting at least an hour after eating. Ten, twenty, and thirty miles are often covered after the first or second trial. It is better to sit on your wheel and pedal slowly than to dismount. Getting on and off, stopping and start¬ ing, are much more fatiguing than wheeling; and it is well to economize your strength at this stage. Always see that the tool-kit is in place on the bicycle, and never go far without a wrench and a screw driver.
The tires also should receive close attention; they should be properly inflated, and the hand-pump carried on a convenient place on the machine. It is never well to use a tire that is not properly inflated. Avoid all broken glass, nails, etc., and do not rest the wheel against a barbed wire fence.
The wheeler who desires to succeed cannot too soon begin to observe and take notes. Early learn to use the wrench yourself, and study how to apply that instrument properly. Study the different parts of the bicycle, and note how the)7 are put together; and particularly observe each nut and screw, and de¬ termine its purpose. Each nut must be at its proper tension to hold securely. Study the valves of the tires and learn their construction; and be sure you know how to apply the pump-coupling properly. Learn the names and uses of the different parts of
36
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
the bicycle, and study their construction. This is mechanical geography, if I may use such a term. Learn to care for your health and how to prepare your system to resist fatigue. Then you will find that you have mastered the subject, and are pre¬ pared to avail yourself of the many pleasures of the sport.
The oftener discouraged, the oftener the opportu¬ nity to hope again. The art of bicycling is a purely mechanical attainment ; and though its complications may at first seem hopeless, sufficient practice will result in final mastery.
CHAPTER VJ.
Helping and Teaching; What to Learn.
Accuracy is the first principle of cycling; and the would-be bicyclist should learn as early as possible that ease of movement and precision of movement are inseparable; and that bruises and bumps and wrenches, though they may have an educational value, are not a necessary accompaniment of the sport. The skilful instructor need never allow a scratch or a bruise. Some people want to learn everything at once; but only so much should be done at each attempt as can be done accurately, if it be only walking the machine about and standing it up. This exercise is helpful, for walking a bicycle about requires a series of accurate movements, and accurate movement is necessary in learning mount¬ ing and propelling.
The bicycle is a marvel of adjustment, and the bi¬ cyclist is obliged to adopt movements that corres¬ pond with the movements of the bicycle. The more accurate this correspondence of movement, the great¬ er the ease of propulsion.
The lines and angles of the levers of feet and legs must be studied to so apply them as to secure the best results. Avoid undue tension. Learn just how
38
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
much to lean the bicycle in mounting, just where to place the foot, where to stand in relation to the han¬ dle-bars, and where to place the weight on the ma¬ chine. This understood, mounting is accomplished. The bicycle may be mastered, and easily mastered, by remembering all the things not to do and by doing all the things that should be done. n
To assist another to do what you do not know how to do yourself is not an easy task; yet there are people who are willing to undertake it.
A bicycle is so nicely balanced that it is easy to hold it up if it is taken hold of in the right way. Grasp the back of the saddle firmly with one band, take hold of one of the handles with the other, and the machine is in your power. A person seated on the saddle with a firm hold of the handles of the handle-bar, becomes, as it were, a part of the ma¬ chine, and when sitting quite still is governed by the same laws of balance that control the bicycle.
Take hold of a bicycle with some one seated in the saddle, and move it a few inches forward, then a few inches backward, and it becomes at once per¬ ceptible that but little force is necessary to overcome the inertia of the combined weights of wheel and rider. The wheel has a tendency to fall to either side, but it is eas}^ to balance the weight on the tires. Then hold the wheel a little toward you, for it is easier and less fatiguing than to hold it from you. If the bicycle is allowed to incline from you, it will pull you over; if it inclines toward you, you can support its weight against the shoulder. If the rider sits still and inclines with the machine, it is easily
LEADING A BICYCLE ABOUT.
HELPING AND TE ACHING.
39
righted; but if the rider’s weight is thrown in a di¬ rection opposite to the inclination of the bicycle, the tendency to fall is increased, and the inclined bicycle is pushed over.
Before assisting another person with a bicycle, it is well to note all the tendencies of the machine. This may be done by taking a bicycle and putting it in all the different positions mentioned. The mo¬ tions are the same whether or not there is any one in the saddle, and it is well to learn to manage the machine without exerting too much force. Stand on the left-hand side of the bicycle, and hold the saddle with the right hand. The steering may be done with the left hand, and the bicycle kept upright by wiggling the front wheel. It is better to do this than to attempt to hold the front wheel still. Walk the bicycle about by the handle-bars only, and you will find that to keep the wheel straight it is necessary to hold the bars stiff, and this is quite a difficult under¬ taking. Allowed to move gently from side to side, the wheel is more easily controlled.
When assisting a person for the first time, stand beside the machine, see that the pedal farthest from you is raised to its greatest height, and move the bi¬ cycle forward until the pedal is commencing its down stroke. Then let the wheeler step in beside the bicycle, in front of you and on the same side of the machine, and grasp both handles firmly. Stand as close as possible to the bicycle, having it inclined toward you at such an inclination that the weight of the wheeler, stepping to the opposite pedal, will right it. Then, while you hold the bicycle still, the
40
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
wheeler should step on the raised pedal, stand upon the pedal with the knee stiff, and then settle slowly on the saddle; the other foot must find the down pedal. Do not let the machine move yet, but have the beginner go over these movements again, prac¬ tising them from both sides of the machine until a little confidence is felt.
It is all important to get on the saddle quickly and easily and without necessity for readjustment. If a skirt is worn, it should be arranged before plac¬ ing the weight on the pedal, and the knee should be slightly bent when the pedal is lowest. The saddle should be the right height; the handle-bars should be a trifle high, that is, when the rider sits erect ; the hands should rest easily and comfortably on the hand-grips. Now the thing for the rider to do is to ride and hold on to the handles. Don’t let the wheel get away from you. To prevent an accident, should this happen, the beginner should know how to come off the bicycle. An active person can step to the ground before the wheel has time to fall. To get off, step on the pedal that is down, and throw the other foot over.
If the saddle is not right, dismount the wheeler in this way: Have the wheeler’s feet firmly placed on both pedals, and see that the down pedal is on the side on which you are standing. Pull the machine a little to that side, and see that the foot is on the down pedal. Then direct the wheeler to step on this down pedal, throwing all the weight on it, and to pass the raised foot over in front of the down foot to the ground. The foot on the down pedal should
PREPARING TO DISMOUNT.
HELPING AND TEACHING
4i
not be removed until the other foot, placed on the ground, has taken the rider’s weight.
Say that you are now going to move, and let the wheeler mount as before. Show that a wiggling movement must be kept up with the front wheel, and say that you will help to do it. See that the wheeler has both handles held firmly, and then grasp the bars just in front of the handle. Keep firm hold of the saddle, and control the balance and push by that, letting the bars do their own work.
A learner always pushes too hard on the pedals.
Take the machine about, and trot it up and down, holding it firmly and keeping it balanced. Should it pull you over, the wheeler can step off without difficulty.
It is much easier for two than for one to help a be¬ ginner. A trio of novices can form a very fair school. A bicycle is inclined either to pull or to push, and if supported on both sides, the pulling tendency is avoided and the pushing tendency read¬ ily corrected. If ladies are helping one another, the best way is for two to hold the bicycle, standing one on each side of the machine. Both should hold the saddle and both should hold the handle-bars just be¬ yond the handles and above the hands of the wheel¬ er. One should instruct, and the other help to hold the machine.
Let a beginner first learn to mount, then to dis¬ mount, practising these movements several times before starting; then, having made sure that the pedal on that side is two-thirds up, come to the left hand side of the wheel, step on the pedal, and be
42
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
seated in the saddle; then put the weight on the pedal that is down, and step off with the other foot. Repeat several times, mounting from each side, dis¬ mounting on the same side and on the opposite side, at command, and repeating. Tilt the wheel as the weight goes on the pedal. Dismount the pupil, and walk the wheel about between you, wiggling the front wheel. Then mount your pupil, and proceed as already explained. After the pupil begins to propel the wheel, very little assistance from the in¬ structor is necessary, and care should be taken not to confuse the pupil as to the amount of work they are doing. Call attention to the ease with which the wheel is brought up when inclined to fall, and explain about turning and steering and wiggling, and what these motions are for. You cannot propel a bicycle unless you know what you are doing; there cannot be guess-work about it. The perfect confi¬ dence that comes with familiarity and practice must precede success.
Given three people with one bicycle, all can learn to ride, helping each other in turn. Having learned to mount and dismount, the next thing is to learn to start the bicycle. The weight should be allowed to start the bicycle as soon as the foot, pressing on the pedal as it descends, brings the wheeler to the saddle.
The stop should be learned next. The wheeler should be reminded to notice which is the down pedal, and to step on it with all the weight just as it begins to rise. This will stop the machine, and the dismount is made in the usual way by throwing the other foot over, and stepping with that on the ground.
'
omxKrnoMsra
HELPING AND TEACHING.
43
The foot that has stopped the machine should not leave the pedal too soon, but remain on it long enough to control the bicycle.
As soon as the wheeler can pedal a little and has the balance well enough to ride without assistance, the next thing is to learn to ride over ordinary ob¬ structions, and to remain on the wheel for a given number of minutes without dismounting. All this can be taught in an ordinary room or on a piazza; and both teacher and pupil will find a smooth sur¬ face, such as a board floor or a pavement, best adapted for the work. Attention cannot too soon be directed to taking the weight off the ascending ped¬ al, and the exercise should not be prolonged for a moment after this becomes a difficult thing to do.
At first the practice leaves the beginner much agi¬ tated and breathless; but these conditions are over¬ come after a few lessons, though experienced riders sometimes experience a return of them when they find mounting difficult and do not notice the grade they are attempting. The sensitiveness of the wheel sometimes puzzles the beginner, and the sense of ad¬ justment is often difficult to acquire.
Nervous work and nervous effort are noticeable in no other sport in the same marked degree. Some seize and adopt its salient points at once and almost unconsciously, but the majority are not so fortunate. The first fifteen minutes on a bicycle are frequently enough to cause thorough exhaustion. The best remedy for this is to take the wheel and walk it about ; the pupil should be left alone with it. If fifteen minutes’ work is too much, alternate five minutes’ work with rest at the next lesson.
44
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
The balance and distribution of strength for the pull by the hands is quite important in directing and controlling the machine. The feet are used to propel and to balance. The teacher should note carefully if the beginner errs by incorrect pedaling or by too much pull on the handles, and correct the wrong tendency.
Balance by pedaling comes next in order, and can¬ not be practised too early; and as by this time a fair amount of speed will have been attained, the natural balance begins to be acquired.
Balanced pedaling and swaying are very different, and should not be confused. The bicycle may be pro¬ pelled, balanced, and controlled entirely by the pedals; and as this is the best and most important mode of wheeling, it should early be understood and attempted.
The adjustment of the machine should now be taken up, and the wheeler should know how and why the bicycle can be changed to suit individual peculiarities. The wiggling tendency of the front wheel lessens as the wheeler acquires confidence; and its unsteadiness can be overcome and controlled with the balance and by pedaling, with the swaying of the body or the pressure of either foot.
There is much to avoid as well as much to do. Incorrect position means difficult work, almost im¬ possible propulsion and possible personal injury. The knowledge that everything is firmly screwed up about the bicycle, and particularly that the saddle is secure, cannot be too soon acquired. Never attempt to mount or even to try the bicycle unless the sad-
HELPING AND TEACHING.
45
die is properly secured and immovable. If anything breaks, it is not necessarily your fault; if anything is insecure, blame no one for not attending to some¬ thing you should yourself have attended to. Always examine the pedals to see that they turn easily; and be sure about that saddle. It is a good deal of trouble to screw the nut up tight for a few minutes, or even for half a minute, but it should be done.
When adjusting the saddle, never be hurried when tools are to be used, for it is necessary to apply them carefully to insure accuracy ; and a nut really requires serious attention, for often a good deal depends upon it. If screwed hurriedly, the thread is in danger of being injured, and on that thread the hold¬ ing power of the nut depends.
When the beginner can balance and propel the bi¬ cycle for a little way alone, the really tedious part of learning often begins. At this point beginners become discouraged, for there seems to be noth¬ ing new to learn; yet the results attained are unsatisfactory. What is needed is practice.
Practise on a smooth piece of road, with some one running beside the bicycle to give confidence and prevent falls. The proper position in mounting should be studied. In mounting a drop-frame ma¬ chine, never step over the frame and place the foot on the ground; it is an awkward and ungainly method. Take a proper position, then be sure every¬ thing is right, and last of all, step on the pedal, and you are moving.
A good way to practise, if you have no one to help you, is to mount the bicycle in the gutter, and limp
46
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
along; or if in the country, a roadside fence may give the needed assistance. Grasp a post firmly, and holding by it, try to mount; and study the tenden¬ cies and the balance of the bicycle without letting go the post.
Make up your mind how to mount, start the pedal properly, and keep trying until you can ride a little. If a little, why not more? Keep on practising, avoid¬ ing faults.
For instruction, the bicycle should be fitted with an instructor’s handle, and the pupil provided with a belt having one handle or more. The instruction handle and a hold on the handle-bar are sufficient safeguard for most pupils, but the belt will often give confidence to the timid and aid the instructor.
CHAP TEH HI I.
A Few Things to Remember .
Two important points for the bicyclist to study are avoidance of road traffic and consideration of the surface ridden over. The law of the road applies to all traffic passing over the road; the law of mechan¬ ics to the surface of the road as it affects the bicycle and the cycler. In cities, on much-used thorough¬ fares, careful work, quick eyes, experience and cau¬ tion are demanded to insure safety.
The law of the road, “Keep to the right, pass on the left anything going in the same direction, ” is explicit, and if always observed would render colli¬ sions almost impossible. The avoidance of careless and unobservant travellers is quite a study. Passing to the right, you can see and be seen; passing on the left, a traveller moving in the same direction does not become aware of your intention without being notified. You give notice to prevent others from changing their direction and to enable them thus to avoid crowding.
To pass a vehicle on the road, when travelling in the same direction, involves increase of speed if the vehicle in front maintains its pace; should it go slower or stop, and the roadway permits, a change
48
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
of pace is neither necessary nor desirable, unless you wish to steady your machine. In nearing any vehi¬ cle or person coming from the opposite direction, keep your share of the road. Be always alert and observant; do not fail to give ample room to the ap¬ proaching vehicle; but on the other hand, do not permit yourself to be crowded or inconvenienced, and keep enough of the roadway on your right in reserve in case a change of direction becomes neces¬ sary.
The importance of having your machine at all times perfectly under control cannot be over-esti¬ mated. Put faith in your pedaling, and never ride at greater speed than you can determine and check at will. Dependence on any brake, however perfect its action, is bad practice.
Vehicles approaching pass each other on the right. In case of collision, the vehicle which has main¬ tained the proper side of the roadway has the advan¬ tage in case of legal controversy. In passing a ve¬ hicle drawn by horses, the bicycle should keep to the centre of the roadway when possible, leaving the curb for the horse-drawn vehicle. The bicycle can only draw away from the curb, and is limited to one direction. The centre of the roadway, therefore, affords the best opportunity for a change of direction.
Sit well on your saddle, observe the adjustment of the centre of gravity, but ride on the pedals, using the weight as much as possible. Trust to the pedals only for rough riding and for unexpected inequali¬ ties of surface. The study of the mechanics of bal¬ ance, resistance, and friction is most interesting in
A FEW THINGS , 7Y) REMEMBER.
49
this connection, as their action affects cycler or wheel or the combined mechanisms.
The law of the road is simple and very generally understood, though there are reckless and ignorant people who disregard it. The law defines where you shall ride, how you shall pass, and sets a limit to in¬ crease of speed beyond what is considered compati¬ ble with the general safety. There is, besides, the unwritten law of courtesy, more often observed than disregarded ; and there is the law you make for your¬ self.
The traffic of a crowded thoroughfare may be ana¬ lyzed, and the conduct of a wheel explained and sim¬ plified, though travel on such routes is difficult at best and had better be avoided. Given a long, straight road, with two streams of travel from oppo¬ site directions. One of these streams will consist of vehicles, quadrupeds, and pedestrians, few maintain¬ ing an even rate of progress, fewer still the same rate. The law requires that you pass on the left, and you must await the opportunity to do so. When a clear way opens, take immediate advantage of it, and increase your speed. Should there not be room enough to pass, signal, and the vehicle in advance is bound to make way for you. Should there be a free road to the right, you may take it, but only with the consent of the traveller ahead, and then at your own risk.
Never ride more than two abreast. Riding in sin¬ gle file, with ample room for turning, is better on a crowded street or when making time. For moderate wheeling, the cyclists being disciplined and drilled,
5°
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
the distance between bicycles may be shortened. But control of the wheel should be absolute before this is attempted. When travelling at even a mod¬ erate rate of speed, a certain distance between wheels should be observed. When in single file, turn on the same line, but not at the same time as the leader. Inexperienced wheelers are apt to turn at the moment the wheel ahead turns. Should you be fol¬ lowing close, keep on your own line, unless you see good cause to change your direction. If the leader wishes to stop, let him turn out: if you are wanted, you will know soon enough. Gain all the dis¬ tance you can between dismounts. A little drill and the understanding of a few signals will prove very useful.
For the public at large, the bicycle may be spe¬ cialized to suit individual needs, and locomotion be¬ comes simplified, distances are reduced, and the ob¬ literated landscape of railroad travel takes form and substance. Cycling means travel over well-con¬ structed highways, with telephone and telegraph, post-office and express office, usually easily acces¬ sible. To enjoy the full freedom that wheeling should give, little luggage should be carried, yet that little must include all necessaries.
When a party of six or even twelve start to wheel a given distance, what are the problems to be met? All being fairly expert cyclists, in good practice, so¬ ciability is incidental while making time. On the road attention, strict attention, to business and to the signals is necessary. Conversation is not pro¬ hibited; it is entirely dependent upon the nature of the surface you are travelling.
A FEW THINGS TO REMEMBER.
5i
How to keep together is a vexed question, and a very nice adjustment of animate and inanimate mechanism would be necessary to its satisfactory settlement. The better way is, all knowing the road, to wheel along independently, with an occasional halt, not necessarily a dismount, assembling at in* tervals of half or three-quarters of an hour. The leader should keep back until the roller of the party is hailed, and has reported, then increase speed again until the next interval has elapsed. Another plan is to wheel with only a given number of min¬ utes headway, this arrangement keeping the roller-up always within hailing distance.
_ A good leader deserves implicit confidence. He has responsibilities aside from wheeling, for the com¬ fort and convenience of others must be intelligently studied, and consideration for each individual cyclist in the party makes constant demand on the qualities of tact and decision; in other words, the leader must possess good judgment and be as well a thorough bi¬ cyclist.
The present rate of wheeling averages ten miles an hour, and greater speed is undesirable, except for special purposes. A point to keep in mind is that every five minutes’ halt is a mile lost. The time lost in slowing and stopping should also be carefully taken, as it is of value in reckoning pos¬ sible mileage.
There are grades to hesitate about, and there are grades to avoid. If a grade seems possible, try it, but dismount the instant it becomes hard work. It is better to dismount too soon than to persist too
52
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
long. Without regard to the inclination, there are two principal kinds of grades — the increased grade and the decreased grade. In mounting the increased grade, more and more power is required at every stroke to push the machine upward. In mounting the decreased grade, this additional power is not necessary, and the ascent is accomplished with little fatigue. Increase of grade means application of more power in ascending, and an increase of momentum in descending. This is on the whole the most dan¬ gerous kind of bicycle travel ; for over-work on the ascent, loss of pedals or dangerous coasting on the descent, are to be expected, and danger should be looked for, and observed in time to be avoided.
It is always well to walk an increasing grade, if the hill be long and steep, both in ascending and descending. The decreasing grade has many pleas¬ ant features, and on a well-known road may be rid¬ den up or down with ease and with little danger of injury. It is interesting to watch the effect of indi¬ vidual adjustment to hill-work, a group of bicyclists being almost always scattered when mounting a grade.
When and where to apply power and when to make the push tell best on his own machine, each cyclist must determine by practice and experience. Some¬ times a long and apparently easy down-grade is ren¬ dered dangerous by its increase of pitch; and seem¬ ingly easy roads are often difficult to travel on ac¬ count of an increasing but almost imperceptible as¬ cent. Unless power is applied to the stroke at the right place, much inconvenience from fatigue will
A FEW THINGS TO REMEMBER.
53
be felt, and will soon overcome the ambitious bi¬ cyclist.
When short expeditions are to be undertaken — all trips of more than an hour’s duration being so classed — remember that lack of preparation means delay, and that ignorance entails discomfort. If the start is to be an early one, go over the bicycle care¬ fully, see that the lamp is in order, that matches are convenient, tools and repair-kit in place, a small en¬ velope of sewing materials with needle and thread and another of red-cross supplies in the pocket.
I have often been laughed at for taking out my lamp for a short afternoon’s ride with friends who could ride well enough for their own satisfaction; and as often have I been obliged to help with my lantern’s light belated wheels coming in close behind me. A lantern is a convenience at dusk, or even earlier, enabling others to see and avoid you; and this helps more than the uncertain light annoys.
For luncheon on a short trip, it is quite safe to depend on the road ; if you carry luncheon, a couple of bread-and-butter sandwiches well wrapped in wa¬ terproof paper, and thin slices of cheese in a sepa¬ rate paper, or hard chocolate and water-biscuit, are as good as anything; and such a luncheon may pre¬ vent delay in swampy or foggy or damp country from becoming dangerous.
vStudy the country you are to travel and the road- surface, understand your map, know your route, its general direction, etc. Always observe the road you cover; keep a small note-book, and jot down everything of interest. Use the pocket-compass,
54
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
even in your home locality, to hx general direction; for when detained at night, such knowledge may prove useful. Fog and rain or a moonless night are bewildering, rendering familiar roads weird and strange; and, unlike the driver or equestrian in the dark, a bicyclist must trust to himself alone. Wheel¬ ing in the dark, however, has some advantages, as you are apt to ride in a straight line, and not turn out for bad places in the road; on the other hand, a certain amount of risk is necessarily taken. There should be no close riding, and constant care should be exercised for the avoidance of collision.
Cycling offers endless opportunities for the for¬ mation of clubs, and cycling clubs there are of all ages and sizes. A simple form of club for the ear¬ lier phases of the sport may be organized in this way: Buy two bicycles, and form as small a club as can manage their purchase. Keep a register, and pass the bicycles from member to member, for say a week at a time, repairs in case of accident to be paid for hy the member using the wheel at the time of the accident. The club may later be enlarged b}^ receiving any desired number of members and pur¬ chasing additional wheels in proportion. But noth¬ ing is so satisfactory as a chosen mount of your own, adjusted to suit your individual needs and kept for your own exclusive use. A bicycle exactly ad¬ justed to your liking should be jealously devoted to your individual use. A beautiful machine should be kept free from finger-marks. Keep a chamois and a clean piece of cheese-cloth at
A FEW THINGS TO REMEMBER.
55
hand where it is kept, and use them. Nickel holds its polish if not attacked by acid or grease. Enam¬ el should be treated differently, with cold water, sponge and chamois, after light dusting.
CHAPTER Hill
The Art of Wheeling a Bicycle.
There are three very important methods of con¬ trolling the bicycle, namely, steering by the hands, guiding by foot-pressure on the pedals, and guid¬ ing by the swaying of the body; and these methods may be used separately or in combination.
The wheels are kept in motion either by pedaling, or simply by gravity in descending a grade. The use of the hands on the handle-bar is two-fold for the inexperienced — for steering and for correcting un¬ due pressure on the pedals. The hand opposite the pedal that receives too much pressure corrects the tendency of the bicycle by an extra pull on the han¬ dle-bars. This is very good exercise, but it is a use¬ less expenditure of force, and cannot be prolonged without great fatigue. It is the work of hill-climb¬ ing done on the level. The feet are on the pedals, and the natural tendency is to press equally at all times on both pedals and pull at the same time on both handles. One pedal must descend, and the other pedal must ascend ; they are attached to the same axle, which is turned by either pedal or both pedals. As the pedals are always on opposite sides of a circle, one is always coming up, and its upward
CORRECT PEDALING
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE .
57
tendency is resisted by any pressure, however slight. The lifting of the foot, therefore, from the ascend¬ ing pedal means easy wheeling. This is one of the hardest things to realize. If there is little or no pressure to resist from the up-coming pedal, it is ne¬ cessary to expend but little force to propel or push the down pedal ; only enough, indeed, to overcome the weight or inertia of the bicycle and the bicyclist and of surface friction, provided there is no grade. But of grades, there are many; and to this is due the infinite variety of the sport of cycling, the mus¬ cular development and increased respiration of the cycler.
The handle-bars should at all times be ready to receive a sudden grip or squeeze. Grip the handles hard when you want to hold on, and only pull as much as is absolutely necessary; for if the arms are stiff and rigid from pulling on the bars, they will not be sensitive enough to control the bicycle. The handles of the bar are the ends of a pair of levers; and the nearer the hand to the centre of the bar, the less power is needed to oppose the other hand. When there is a tendency to pull hard on the handles, gradually slip the hands near the middle of the bar, and the pull will ease up. The front wheel, to run easily, should run steadily; and the less wiggle there is, the better for steady travel.
The pedal is the projection on the crank adapted to the use of the foot. There are many varieties of pedals, of differing sorts, weights, patterns, and pur¬ poses. The foot placed on the pedal pushes it down ; the push is communicated to the wheel to propel the
58
BICYCLING FOR LB DIFS.
bicycle forward. As the pedal leaves the dead cen¬ tre, the power begins to take effect, and continues until the dead centre below is reached. Now, it is necessary to push at just the right time and place; if too soon and too hard, the wheels of the bicycle will go too fast, and must be retarded by pressing down on the up-coming pedal. The natural weight pressure of the foot is more than enough to propel the bicycle over ordinary surfaces at a fair rate of speed, without the application of great muscular power.
The foot should be placed squarely on the pedal, the ball of the foot only resting on it, and the toe pointing downward. The foot may be made to per¬ form divers duties, and numberless new combina¬ tions of pressure can be and are called for and ap¬ plied.
To apply more power in the stroke, begin to push when the pedal is all the way up, the toe pointing down until at the lowest part of the stroke, ready to follow the pedal around, pushing it backwards, and helping to lift it. Here the toe-clip helps, and holds the foot on the pedal, in the place where the ten¬ dency to leave it is greatest. Balanced pedaling is a little different, and weight-pressure on the pedal is used as a factor to overcome the front wheel.
Use the weight as much as possible to propel, and reserve the push for hard grade-work. Keep the knees well turned in; it squares the foot and pre¬ vents the ankle from receiving hard knocks. * When the knee is turned out, the ankle bones are turned in, and so receive many a bruise that could have been
FOLLOWING I’EDAL.
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE .
59
avoided. To keep the ankles from interfering, turn the knees in, and ride square leg.
Controlling a bicycle on a down-grade requires pressure on the ascending pedal. Point the heel down or hold the toe up, and an even pressure will be maintained. Let the lift come with the heel well squared and the leg as straight as possible, the weight to be supplied at the right point on the up stroke to control the machine. Always use the weight when possible as a supplementary driving power.
The pedals differ in construction and in material, being differently adapted for racing and for road work. A pedal with a good broad resting surface for the foot is very comfortable, though a “rat-trap” pedal used with a stiff-soled shoe is lighter and pre¬ ferable. Toe-clips are desirable for those who can use them easily, but for a novice they are dangerous, being liable to cause the mishaps they are intended to prevent. Experienced bicyclers prefer any dis¬ comfort to that of a lost pedal, and when wheeling with only a light, even pressure, toe-clips are good reminders; but their principal use is to apply more power and help the foot to carry the pedal around and back.
The swaying of the bod}^ controls the bicycle from the saddle. In walking the bicycle about, it is soon perceived that it may be directed by holding the saddle only. The pressure comes from the saddle, and the bicycle is swayed by the rider, by leg press¬ ure against the saddle. There is little or no shoulder movement, and the body, though flexible, does not move perceptibly. When starting a machine, hold
6o
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
it well balanced by the handle-bars, and know how much inclination to allow. Take hold, and mount steadily and easily, and move off quietly, noting the running of the bicycle. Gradually increase the speed, leaning- a little forward to lessen any sudden strain and to help the push on the pedals. Then in¬ crease the stroke to the desired speed, and the ma¬ chine will take care of itself. Speed power may be increased, and it is good practice to slow, and start again at will.
Figure wheeling, with a good leader, is capital practice to insure steadiness and increase the power of control over the bicycle. It is not easy to stop suddenly when going at a good rate of speed, and it is well to know }Tour limit of distance in such case; nor is it easy to spring alertly from the saddle when bringing up in a dangerous position, even when frightened into doing it. Back pedal hard, grip with the hands and press down, holding the bicycle still as you reach the ground. The pedals will not get in the way, and it is well to remember not to let go of the machine if you do not want to get hurt. To jump off and hold the bicycle still may at times pre¬ vent collisions.
The cyclist, however sure of his skill, should not throw his machine at any one, even inadvertently. There is much unnecessarily fine riding done — dash¬ ing between two passing vehicles, for instance, or rushing through a gap instead of wheeling slowly behind a wagon until an open space is reached; but some prefer the stimulation and excitement of danger to safety, and like to perform such hazardous feats.
LIFTING,
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE . 61
Steering is a subject for serious consideration ; a sharp eye, quick determination, constant care, and a steady hand are needed. A knowledge of steering is essential for safe coasting; and as one of the pleasures of cycling is to descend easily the hill you have climbed, a fair degree of steadiness should be attained. Brakes are important aids. Learn to brake with the foot, but do not resort to this expedi¬ ent unless compelled to.
Now to consider hill-work. The resistance of the grade is always perceptible; it is not always recog¬ nized. As the angle of ascent increases, the powers of the bicyclist are taxed.
The spindle of the pedal describes a circle. The foot part of the pedal revolves around the spindle, and permits the foot to take any angle that is needed for the best application of power, the plane always, however, remaining parallel with the spindle. This arrangement of the pedal allows of ankle-motion within certain limits; and to give greater efficiency, the foot and ankle may move in adjustment with the weight and power to be applied. This is the much- talked-of ankle-motion. The pressure may be applied to the pedal by this ankle-motion at any part or at all parts of the circle that the pedal describes.
As constructed, the pedal permits free ankle and instep movement, prevents cramping of the foot, and allows the foot the same freedom that it has in walk¬ ing or running. Ease of work depends on proper application of power. To be able to apply just the right amount of push to carry the crank past the dead centre, and to pull it past the lowest dead
62
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
centre, and to follow the pedal accurately, is the aim of all good pedal work. The push down is almost instinctive; but the lifting of the weight from the ascending pedal can be acquired only by practice, when the muscles have become sufficiently ac¬ customed to the work to move without the effort of mental concentration that they seem to require in the beginning.
The power of the stroke may be given by applying the weight after the dead centre is passed.
The weight should be entirely removed from the ascending pedal, and the balance and sway used to take the pull off the handle-bars by throwing the weight from side to side for that purpose. The weight and balance should be directed in this way: If the push on the down pedal only is used, it must be corrected by a pull on the handle; this pull in¬ creases as the grade obstructs the wheel. Skilful hill-work shows in the lessened pull on the handles.
In travelling on the level, the ascending foot is pushed up, and rested by being lifted. There is no reason why the pushing muscles should be stronger than the lifting muscles of the leg except that they are accustomed to do more work.
Always try to ride a hill, but never begin by look¬ ing at the top to see how far off it is. Pay no more attention to the surface than is absolutely required by the nature of the surface. Concentrate all thought on the pedals and how best to push or take the pull off the handle-bars. Lean a. little forward if necessary, and do not try to increase the stroke. The number of strokes is bound to lessen if the power is
back pedaling,
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE . 63
not increased proportionately on the ascent. And how can the power be effectively applied unless the work is done intelligently by mental application, or instinctively by the use of accustomed muscles?
Hills should be ridden easily, or not ridden at all. It is easier to wheel up an ascent than to walk up, if the wheeling is properly done. Always stop before the hill proves too much for you. Never think any incline too steep to attempt; this is the first move on the road to successful hill-climbing.
The seat for hill-work should be made to support the body. The bicyclist should not be obliged to cling to the handles to keep from slipping off over the saddle; there should be something else to push against. To get all possible power out of the levers, there should be a sufficiency of fulcrum for the lever to work against; and the saddle should certainly be made to do duty in hill-work.
If there is no support from the rear of the saddle, the fulcrum must be located at the handle-bars, which should have all possible strain removed from them to lessen the pedal work. A saddle placed at this angle is of little use as a fulcrum on an incline. In all work, levers and fulcrums are kept in position by the hands, unless the weight is supported from the saddle. If this principle of the application of power is considered, the usual difficulty of hill-climb¬ ing is overcome. Why should it be harder to wheel up hill than to walk up and push a bicycle?
In the first place, it is necessary to be able to stay on the bicycle without holding yourself on; in the next place, to know how to apply the power; and
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
64
then to perform the work, keeping all essential points well in mind. Wheel up hill with the mouth shut, or get off; wheel slowly; concentrate power to apply it most effectively.
Power is needed in overcoming both the crank dead centres. The weight should be applied to force the crank downward, and the weight lifted to let the other crank rise. The body sways to ease the handle pull, and the bicycle mounts steadily. The inertia, of course, becomes more apparent as the weight is resisted by gravity; so do not attempt to force or strain, with the idea that hill-climbing is something that must be done. It should be done only when it can be done easily.
The rule for climbing universally recommended reads, “Pay no attention to the hills. Ride them.” This is good as far as it goes, but it is of little assist¬ ance in mounting an incline.
There are two kinds of grades independent of the angle — the increase grade and the decrease grade, in ascending, and in descending as well ; for descend¬ ing is only the reverse of ascending. In approach¬ ing an ascending grade, always note its character, whether long or short, what the pitch is, and particu¬ larly if the angle of ascent increases or decreases at the top of the incline, and prepare for the work be¬ fore you.
Each hill has its peculiarities, which must be studied and conquered. The actual mounting to the top is not all you have to do; you should mount in proper trim, arriving at the summit fresh and fit. It is most saddening to see some one else mount a
BACK PEDALING — SHOWING DISTRIBUTION OP WEIGHT.
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE .
65
hill easily, leaving1 you, puffing and pushing, half way up, and to know that, when you reach the top, speechless and exhausted, that exasperating person will be seated there, cool, contemplative, and com¬ fortable.
Intelligent practice, however, should result in scientific attainment. The saddle should be adjusted in relation to the pedals for the carrying of the cranks past the dead centre. The angle of the saddle should be studied, and the adjustment permit of its use as a fulcrum in hill-wTork, while admitting of balance-work on a level and of comfort and ease in coasting. It should support the weight when the feet are on the forks, not merely permit of balancing.
In studying this adjustment, weight, length of limb, strength, and the work to be done should all be taken into consideration. The rule that what is lost in speed is gained in power should comfort the hill climber when, half-way up a grade, the bicycle gradually loses speed, and seems to be stopping, in spite of all efforts to the contrary.
In mounting, the machine is started by the plac¬ ing of the weight on the pedal, and in hill-climbing the weight should be used to force the pedal down and around. The bringing of the pedal into position where the weight will take effect is the true secret of success. Follow this by making the weight carry as far as possible, prolonging its usefulness by pushing the pedal back past the lowest dead centre, and following and lifting it. But it is use¬ less to prolong the work if the commencement of the stroke is not executed in an effective manner.
66
BIC YCLI.YG BOB LADIES .
The up-coming' pedal must either be pulled up, or have all weight removed to permit the power to be fully effective on the down pedal. What is the point where power applied will begin to tell? If the up¬ per dead centre is left to be overcome by the down¬ ward stroke of the foot on the pedal, the foot on the ascending pedal is doing no work, only kept from doing harm, held in a cramped position.
After carrying the crank past the lower dead centre, the weight is removed and the angle of the foot changed from pointing the toe down to holding the toe up and dropping the heel. As the foot-rest will follow the sole of the foot, it is a simple matter to change the pressure from pushing and pulling up to pressing and shoving over. Before the crank has arrived at the top of the circle, say at sixty degrees, the heel should be lowered, and the attention di¬ rected to pushing the cranks over and past the dead centre. As the top of the circle is reached, the foot levels, and prepares to point the toe to make an ef¬ fective downward thrust. Rise from the saddle a little at this point, to make the weight more effective, and prepare to carry the pedal back as far as pos¬ sible. This method leaves very little time for the foot to change its angle. From the toe pointing downward to the toe held up ready to push, the change from pull to push is abrupt, and hill-work depends on correct ankle-motion more than anything else. The ankle-motion may be corrected by sway¬ ing, the hands meanwhile being held lightly on the handle-bars ready for emergencies, but not used for the work of climbing.
HILL-CLIMBING — BUSHING CRANK OVER,
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE . 67
The breathless condition induced by extra work may be remedied; for the upper chest is forced to expand, while, if the arms are held rigid; a plentiful supply of air for the lungs is not insured. (See Chapter on Exercises). Free combustion is needed for the extra power exerted.
The bicycle and its load are lifted, and a given weight requires a given power to lift it. That power must be supplied by the stored force of the human body, and must be utilized to the best advan¬ tage if the work is to be prolonged. Hill-work is not impossible of achievement; but it requires intel¬ ligent work unless one applies mechanical laws in¬ tuitively. Easy hill-work is delightful ; it is work, hard work, but work done without strain. Nothing, on the other hand, can be more injurious than forced hill-climbing; the strain on heart and lungs is severe, particularly for one wearing a tight belt, or any constrictive clothing about the waist.
Because a hill looks rough and the surface difficult, it does not at all follow that it will be bad wheeling. If the tires are not too full, inequalities of surface are an assistance, helping to block the wheels, and preventing them from slipping back, while the soft tire takes up the stones and bumps, holding on by them. Always look well at your hill on approaching it; study its inclination, determine its grade, and the nature of its surface, and quickly decide how best to attack it.
. On mounting the top of a grade, never hurry or increase speed; wheel along slowly and easily, with the mouth shut, undigested and really ready to start
68
BTC YCLI.YG FOR LADIES .
up. If there is a good coast, don’t hurry to it, but keep working gently until the balance of the respira¬ tory organs is fully restored. Then take the coast, and all the benefits of hard work, and rest, and the exhilarating effects of swift motion and free oxida¬ tion are fully realized.
To work in balance or equilibrium is the aim of hill-work, and there should not be too abrupt a transition after severe exertion. Pqdal along at a pace to restore the breathing after hard work, then change; never dismount when breathless, but wheel along slowly. The strain is thus much less than by forcing the body to accommodate itself to a change of position just when a general easing is required, a general slackening of all the muscles that have been at work.
Rest always before dismounting long enough at least to restore breathing; and rather than coast after climbing, back-pedal gently and slowly if the grade should descend from the top of the ascent.
Never let a hill get the better of you, if it is one that you have a chance to attack a second time. Set to work and study it. Find out the changes of grade, and prepare for a change in the amount of power at the proper place in the incline. See if the grade is simple, prolonged, or compound. If the surface is very smooth, it will be more difficult. There is a bit of road that I remember well, a country road, seemingly good enough, with a little grade perhaps in some places; but, one after another, it dismounted us all. A heavy Telford pavement was
THE ART OF WHEELING A BICYCLE. 69
laid, but there was still a mile and a half of that road that winded the best of us every time. Though it was up grade all the way, experience had taught us that at places we must stop, and mount again and go on. Our machines were heavy, but this fact did not explain what puzzled us; for it ought not to be easier to start a heavy wheel up a grade than to con¬ tinue to wheel up steadily. Knowing this bit of road so well, we were on the lookout to note its effect on others; and there were always wheels lined up at some part of the road, and a curious variety of ex¬ pressions on the countenances of their riders — puz¬ zled defeat on those unacquainted with the road, and sad determination on those who knew it too well.
After a careful study of this grade, that was long but not steep, and seemingly not difficult, we found it made up of a series of differently inclined planes and curves, the up-curves all against us; and, taken from foot to top, there was a continued increase of pitch, with certain changes that were all against wheeling; and moreover a generally increasing pitch for the whole distance, and four places of change of grade, each change an increase of pitch and an in¬ creased angle of ascent. The smooth surface con¬ cealed these difficulties at first, making the deceptive stretch appear easy and inviting. It was like the in¬ side of a curved line set with scollops.
To overcome this most difficult kind of incline, wheel along at a good pace, note the increase of grade, and drop the heel at the beginning of the down stroke, or rather while the pedal is half way
7°
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
on the up stroke and the foot is prepared to resist the change. Take into consideration the fact that an increase of power is necessary; look where to apply it, adjust the balance of the body to the work, and your work will be effective.
ETHICS AND ANKLE MOTION.
If you are going to ride the bicycle for the sake of seeing how many miles you can go in a given length of time, and you don’t care how you look, and you don’t care what effect your riding has on the minds of others, and you don’t care what the general opinion of the non-riding public is, and if you have a measly, hard saddle that hurts you when you sit up, or if you imagine you are more comfort¬ able with your nose pointing toward the ground, then of course you will ride this way —
But if, on the other hand, you are to use the wheel for health, comfort and happiness, if you have the instincts that enable you to enjoy the beauties ; of nature, if you have in mind what your non-riding friends might think of you, if you are anxious to appear like a gentleman, and show the world that a gentleman can ride a bicycle without losing any part of his dignity, then, of course, you will sit up like this —
If, after you can ride with some degree of confi¬ dence, and no longer find it convenient to keep the “hollow” of your foot on the pedal, you should want to make a study of the science of pedaling, so as to create the impression that you are an expert, the following may be of interest.
“ Knee action ” is considered a good point in trotting horses, but it is not so admirable in the bicycle rider. The knee should not be moved more than is necessary after the ankle has done its part. Ankle motion is graceful ; knee motion is ungraceful.
The saddle should be adjusted so that the “ ball ” of the foot -can just comfortably reach the pedal when at its lowest point, as here shown. If the sad¬ dle is too low, so that the leg is not fully straightened at each stroke, the knee becomes tired much sooner. When the pedal comes up the ankle joint should be allowed to bend easily, so that at the beginning of the next downward movement the foot would stand in this fashion, — which allows the knee to rise to a much less height than if the ankle had been kept rigid so as to ap¬ pear at the upper¬ most point of each revolution, like this — “ The looks
of the thing ” has a great deal to do with bicycling, and proper knee action is worthy of consideration by all cyclists.
If the saddle is so low that when the knee is straightened the heel comes down below the pedal in this manner, then it is obvious that the knee action must be much more at the top of the stroke. This excessive motion of the upper joints of the leg is es¬ pecially ungraceful when it in¬ volves the raising each time of a skirt, which, in addition, may be flapping in the wind.
Ladies, especially, should study to use the ankle joint as much as possible, or at least as much as they do in walking, and, above all, have the saddle well up ; then, be¬ fore starting out to ride, read the following, written by Robert Grant, in Harpers' Weekly :
CHAPTER IX.
Position and Power.
The racing wheelman has adopted a position that has received much censure — a position accepted as the one enabling applied power to produce the great¬ est speed. If this position is analyzed and compared with the erect position, several interesting features may be noted, and by comparing the two positions, important information may be gathered.
The bicyclist seated upon the saddle, not against it, has little power for work. The thrust is down¬ ward ; there can be no forward push or backward thrust, unless the hands grip the handle-bars and pull against the push, if the push needed is greater than can be resisted by the weight of the body.
The power of the stroke is all in the downward di¬ rection; there can be but little power in the forward thrust; the most important part of the stroke in hill¬ climbing is that given by getting behind the pedal and pushing it down. If the saddle be too far for¬ ward, power is again lost in the push and thrust, and the up-and-down motion must do the work, and power is lost on the down thrust, though added in the upward and backward push.
We may conclude that a proper position has much
72
BICYCLING FOR LADIES .
to do with the work of bicycling; that there is more than one correct position, different positions being adapted to different work. The racing position on the bicycle is the position for speed, and is the posi¬ tion of the running athlete. It is not adapted to moving at a moderate pace or to being maintained for any length of time. It is the position in which power may be most readily converted into speed; where the leverage may be applied with the greatest efficiency, and the greatest amount of work accom¬ plished in the least possible time.
The drop position also takes the strain off the upper leg muscles, and is desirable on that account, apart from the fact that more power may be exerted from that position. The leg does not straighten out, and is always ready to give a powerful stroke and maintain an increased or even speed. It is a posi¬ tion of continuous movement; and if the weight and all the muscles are not directed to propel, the weight is improperly supported on all fours.
The position for speed where the; weight is dis¬ tributed between handle-bar, saddle, and pedals is not suitable for road work, nor can it be maintained for any long period without injurious results. It is the position where power is best converted into speed.
For prolonged work a different position is de¬ manded. Here speed is not a necessary factor, but ease of movement and continuous movement are es¬ sential. We are not anxious to convert power quick¬ ly, but rather to reserve our powers, and use them slowly.
For pleasure riding and ordinary exercise, the erect
COASTING.
POSITION AND POWER.
73
position is the best. The drop position is the racing or running position; the erect position, the position of ease.
Here the saddle question presents itself. The saddle should support the weight while seated, or, in the racing position, hold the weight; it should not hamper movement, and should be comfortable for coasting. In moving over the ground, the relative position for the balance of the cyclist changes accord¬ ing to the grades; and the seat should be adjusted so as to be adaptable to the different positions re¬ quired to enable the bicyclist to change the balance for the work of the moment.
There is also the position adapted to quick work and exercise. Change in adjustment of the applica¬ tion of power varies with the amount of work done by the bicyclist in covering a certain distance. The resistance caused by change of speed and varied wind resistance have also to be taken into the calcu¬ lation. People of different lengths of leverage must study the different adjustments of the machine to produce the best results for the different kinds of work required of the machine.
When a hill is to be surmounted, the climb should be made without effort, that is, effort understood in its technical sense. The position should be such as to permit of work being done by the foot, and the power should be applied at the right time and place. Assistance by a pull on the handle-bars means les¬ sened power on the stroke. Effort succeeds effort. The work should be done by the foot, the pelvis being the fulcrum. The saddle should be the real
74
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
fulcrum. If the hands are used to do the work by pulling, the pelvis becomes the only fulcrum, and the bicycle saddle is not used at all for the applica¬ tion of power. The weight should be made to do as much of the work as possible, and the added resist¬ ance of lever pressure made auxiliary.
To obtain leverage for the hands, it is necessary to use a fulcrum. Where is that fulcrum located ? Each set of muscles pulls on its point of application —the hand on the arm, the arm on the shoulder, the shoulder on the thorax, the thorax on the pelvis. If more power is needed, it must require effort.
In hill-climbing, effort is a physiological phenom¬ enon associated with great expenditure of force. In making an effort, exerting force, the air-passages of the lungs are closed, the air in them making of them an air-cushion, as it were, which acts as a ful¬ crum for certain extra muscular combinations. This accounts for the feeling of suffocation experienced in severe hill-climbing, which should never be pro¬ longed. The hill should be climbed with the hands held easily, not gripping the handles; and gripping and pulling on the handles, it should be remembered, lessen the power for prolonged work. Squeezing the handle-bars induces involuntary lung compres¬ sion, and pulling on them adds to the strain. Lean forward, if need be, to balance and maintain the equilibrium, but do not maintain the centre of grav¬ ity by piffling on the handles.
The fixed position of the arms, when sitting with spinal column erect, certainly prevents a full, free inflation of the lungs; the shoulders are held fixed,
WHEELING ONE FOOT OVER,
POWER AND POSITION.
75
and between the saddle and the fixed shoulders there is no up and down lung-play. In running, the fore¬ arms and shoulders permit free chest expansion. In the racing position on a bicycle, the arms and shoulders take the same relative position as in run- ni'ng, and a full, free lung expansion is obtained.
No rigidity is maintained between shoulders and saddle in the racing drop-position.
For speeding and work of that kind, the position that allows of the greatest flexibility as well as the greatest leverage is the position to be chosen.
In travelling and in every-day wheeling, the posi¬ tion should be one permitting the minimum expendi¬ ture of power; the weight should be supported, yet the position should be such as to permit the weight to be used as a propelling power. The hands should be held where they are supported and in the position where they can most easily control the wheel under any change of conditions. The saddle should be placed where the foot can act most effectively at all parts or at as many parts as possible of the circle that the pedal describes. The height of the saddle should be calculated to permit of extension of the leg without supporting the weight on the saddle, which causes compression of the larger veins and arteries. The foot should at all times be fully on the pedal; that is, the position should permit of throwing all the weight on to the pedals, whatever the position of the cranks at the moment. The handle-bar should be adjusted; also length of arm and relative position ; and the weight, height, and curve of bar adapted to suit individual build.
76
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
Length of crank, gear, height, position, and ad¬ justments of saddle may be used as factors in adjust¬ ment of position for ease of movement and preven¬ tion of fatigue. Each individual has different combinations of lever power, varying with the lengths of the different parts of different limbs. One may have a long thigh-bone with short lower leg; another may have just the reverse combination — short thigh-bone and long lower leg.
The crank is the lever of application of power ; the gear, the power in resistance. The gear determines, in a sense, how much force is needed; the length of crank, combined with the levers of foot and leg, the proper or most comfortable lever for overcoming that resistance. Long-limbed people do well on long cranks, short-limbed people on short cranks, — the question of length of limb to be determined, not b}^ actual measurement, but as to the proportions in weight and length of limbs generally. Either too long or too short a crank will produce numbness and fatigue. The leg and foot on the crank as it works form a crank lever movement. The crank of a bicycle should be of such length as to permit of the great¬ est amount of force being conveyed along the lever movement with the least resistance.
The sprocket-wheel is the weight to be moved by the crank; but the crank is only one of a series of levers.
The knee, the ankle, and the pedal-pin must re¬ volve in a circle or a part of a circle; and each indi¬ vidual must find out the size of circle that is deter¬ mined by the crank that will best move in adjust-
WHEELING FROM THE l'EG — SHOWING DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT.
POWER AND POSITION.
77
ment with his individual lever combination. A small circle on the pedal may mean cramped or uncomfortable movement for a long-limbed cyclist; or a large pedal circle too great distance to traverse on the stroke for a short-limbed cyclist. A stout person working on a high gear, with a crank adapted to his requirements, makes fewer strokes of the pedal for distance traversed, but expends more power at each stroke; therefore, when wishing to re¬ duce weight, he should use a low gear, working rapidly, and when wishing to travel easily, a higher gear. A thin person should be careful to choose such a length of crank and such a gear as will give ease, so that undue fatigue may be avoided.
The position of the saddle should be most carefully considered. It should be just far enough back to permit of getting a forward pressure on the pedal against the crank, as it were, at the top of the stroke, and yet have something to work against in hill¬ climbing. The tilt or inclination should be studied as well as the build of the saddle; its height from the pedal should allow the foot, when on the pedal, at its most distant point from the saddle, to press with the ball firmly on the pedal; and yet the saddle, when the leg is extended, should not press so as to compress the large blood vessels of the inside of the leg as it rests against the saddle.
The handle-bar adjustment permits of individual preference to a certain extent. The handles should be within easy reach of the hands and below the line of the elbow. If above the level, power is lost, and the controlling sense of direction as well. The grip
BICYCLING FOB LADIES.
73
on the handles is instinctive, and as there is much work for the hands to do, they should be able to grip easily and quickly, and to move, easily in all direc¬ tions that the handles take, retaining their control¬ ling power undiminished. A position with the hands reaching down a little gives more power than a posi¬ tion with the hands reaching up; and in this posi. tion the leverage of the elbows and the power of the shoulder and upper arm may be more effectively exerted.
Speed work should be done only on a track or a place set apart for that kind of work; and the most delicate adjustment and balance of weight and pres¬ sure should be studied to produce the proper results. Scorching, also, to be effective, should be done only on a track, and the position for the work should be planned most carefully. High speed over rough surfaces on even well-made roads may prove disas¬ trous if the position for the work is not a correct one. Serious injury may result to the bicyclist working incorrectly, with wheel out of adjustment.
Scorching and racing, however, are not properly part of the subject of bicycling, but are a sport, and should be separately considered.
The adjustment of position may be changed for rest or for any particular purpose; but for practical purposes it is well to adopt a fixed adjustment of handle-bar and saddle and length of crank and gear, and adhere to that, endeavoring to acquire the best form on a machine adapted to suit your individual requirements.
A bicycle should be used only by the person for
POWER AND POSITION
79
whom it has been adjusted; for comfort on a bicycle depends on such infinitely small adjustments. Never lend a bicycle or a tool, and never make any change in adjustment by guess. For ordinary use, the sad¬ dle should be a little back of the pedals and not too high, and the handles within easy reach. This will allow of the balance and adjustment of weight and balance to suit changing conditions of surface and grade.
Sprinting is often tempting, and comparatively harmless. Scorching is a form of bicycle intoxica¬ tion, and the taste once acquired, the bicyclist craves its excitement, caring little for the other pleasures of the sport. The scorcher sees little, hears little, and is conscious of little but the exhilaration of the moment, and seems to be imbued with the idea of consuming a certain amount of tissue in a given time. Scorching is a form of bicycling hardly to be commended, and reckless scorching is to be con¬ demned at all times. Sprinting consumes a large quantity of material in a limited time, and though it is well at times to practise speeding, still the getting up of speed involves considerable expenditure of power and greatly increased momentum, and should be indulged in only by those who understand the limit of their powers and know what they hold in reserve.
The wheel of to-day was evolved on the race-track and for the conditions determined thereon; and the amateur bicyclist owes much to the professional wheelman. Improvements in construction, in de¬ tail, and in adaptability have reached a certain limit,
8o
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
a limit of possibilities in certain directions. It behooves ns now to accept the machine and to adapt ourselves to its requirements and to avail ourselves of all that it offers.
The elasticity of the machine, the resiliancy of the tire, rigidity of frame, position, vibration, and con¬ cussion should be next considered.
On a bicycle fitted with a rigid saddle and with hard tires, well blown up, the vibration that is con¬ veyed through the entire machine is very perceptible, even on a smooth wheeling surface. Over uneven country, Belgian blocks, or other rough or corrugated surfaces, the vibration produces concussion; and if too erect and rigid a position is maintained, fatigue, if nothing worse, is sure to result.
On a horse the position, while erect, is studied to lessen the concussion; the weight is carried well under to avoid it. The flexible curve of the spine is there, though not perceptible, as the body is held erect and in balance. The lower part of the body becomes part of the saddle, the upper body flexible from above the hips. The concussion comes as each of the horse’s feet is placed on the ground; while concussion on the bicycle is produced by the change caused by each inequality of surface. The pneumatic tire lessens this to a degree, if not blown up too hard; for inequalities sink into the }delding surface that would make a wheel with a hard tire bump.
The frame should be stiff to hold its direction, and the saddle elastic enough to interrupt the vibra¬ tion ' of the frame. The position on the saddle should be studied to prevent tension or compression
POWER AND POSITION.
81
of any of the joints, large or small; and the spine should be easily erect, not stiff and rigid, but flexible.
The sense of balance and the adjustment required I to balance the bicycle tends to keep the body flexible. The danger to be avoided is concussion induced by a rigid position — a position where, the bones being held closely against each other by tense muscles, shock is easily conveyed over the entire body.
Let the weight come well on the saddle, in such a : position that it can be shifted to the pedals at will; and let the whole trunk be flexible, elastically flexi¬ ble, equally in all directions. Then the bicycle may be controlled almost unconsciously and from the saddle, the hands being used only in an auxiliary manner. The front wheel may be steered and con¬ trolled from the saddle by means of the power over the front wheel gained by the bicycle frame con¬ struction.
Bic}rcling can be thoroughly enjoyed only when the machinery ceases to require constant and concen¬ trated attention. The rhythmical movements of a bicyclist at ease, master of the conditions, comes only with confidence and the persistent practice which causes all the muscles to move easily together in un¬ interrupted combinations, and the bicycle no longer to require conscious attention.
CHAPTER X .
Difficulties to Overcome.
There is the mounting difficulty and the steering difficulty and the pedaling difficulty; and then there is the general difficulty of doing all these things together.
The first thing to do after learning the theory of starting and stopping the machine is to make it go. No matter what happens, keep it going, the faster the better, until a taste is acquired for the pastime; until the going-forward-forever idea seems to have taken possession of you.
Then you want to try it again, but mounting seems more difficult than ever. The machine will not do anything it ought to do; it bucks and kicks and stops and spills and slips, and will not stand still, or even move on. You know how to mount, or think you know; but that knowledge does not seem to aid materially in overcoming the tendencies of the machine.
Now be sure that you do know what to do. The first thing to know is that the weight placed on the pedal starts the machine ; that the foot on the ground will hold the machine, and keep it from starting; that the machine when in motion will move without
jilll
PREPARING TO MOUNT — SHOWING INCLINATION.
DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME. 83
falling, and when at rest will not stand still unless held up.
Then determine the amount of inclination the bi¬ cycle requires to balance against your weight. The weight placed on the pedal pulls the machine up to a vertical plane; and the inclination to be calculated for soon becomes an accepted quantity. In gripping the handles and inclining the machine, the balance that is felt will set you up on your wheel.
In mounting, the beginner is apt to stand too far behind the mounting pedal. The position should be beside it, and the mounting foot be placed over the frame and on the pedal. Then, raising the weight by means of the handles, step off the ground, letting the pedal take the weight. Do not give any push from the foot on the ground, but step off the ground as you step on the pedal. Stepping on the pedal sets the machine in motion, and rights it at the same time. There is nothing now to do but to let the pedal lower you to the saddle, and hold the other foot up until the other pedal comes around and carries the foot forward.
In mounting, the weight should be distributed between the handles and the pedal until seated on the saddle. To practise mounting, take the wheel, and start on a very slight down grade. Never at¬ tempt to practise mounting against a grade, no matter how slight the inclination. A careful in structor teaches mounting and dismounting thor¬ oughly; but if a poor method has been acquired, practise alone until you have gained confidence and perhaps a few bruises. The only way to succeed
84
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
is to try and try again. Practise fifteen minutes at a time, for it is fatiguing work; and do not become discouraged. With sufficient practice, the difficulty vanishes.
Never practise mounting when tired; for you should be alert, and all your muscles responsive. But persist; practise first mounting, and then dis¬ mounting; and then rest by walking the machine about to learn its balance.
Any one who rides or drives, or rows or sails, knows something of the art of steering, — pulling or pushing on one side or the other to change direction, — and on mounting a bicycle has only to apply knowledge already acquired. In steering a bicycle, look directly over the centre of the handle-bars in the direction you wish to take, and push or pull the wheel until the centre of the bars coincides with your objective point. This is really what is done; but the machine is so delicately sensitive that you change its direction almost without knowing that you are doing so. You go where you look; the hands follow the eye; and the art of steering a bi¬ cycle resolves itself into knowing where you want to go, and looking in that direction as you move. In steering or mounting, always have an objective point. Look up the road well ahead, and keep the general direction.
A difficulty early experienced is uncertain steer¬ ing and an uncertain sense of direction. When you are out for practice, look well ahead towards the end of your road over the handles. Novices run into anything they look at, and must concentrate their at-
DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME. 85
tention, therefore, on the direction the bicycle ought to take.
The weight inclined from side to side steers the bicycle; pressure on either pedal steers it as well.
Correct and effective pedaling is a very difficult attainment, to be acquired only with care and practice. First make the bicycle go, then study how you doit, and improve your method. Keep in mind the points that are required for correct pedaling. The early difficulty experienced is to keep the knees and ankles in proper line. Turning the knees in and the heels out will prevent the ankle-bones from strik¬ ing, a difficulty that many experience.
The reason that mounting is so difficult for some is because the foot is placed incorrectly on the pedal, with the toe pointing out. The foot should be parallel with the frame of the bicycle, and the knee turned in; or else, when the weight is raised, the ankle will strike, and the discomfort of the blow will render the attempt to mount unsuccessful. The po¬ sition seems awkward until correctly acquired; but the awkwardness is due usually to lack of confidence to come close to the machine and to taking a position too far back of the mounting pedal.
The change of direction on mounting often proves confusing, and the bicycle must be steadied, and made to keep its direction at the same time.
Choose your direction, and assure yourself of plenty of room to work in, away from trees or stones or other objects that might prove a source of danger in case of collision. Then mount and go. Keep these two ideas well in mind. If you are uncom-
86
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
fortable, stop and get off; don’t try to adjust any¬ thing while in motion. When you get on, go. You cannot get on and keep still. Do not get on unless you are ready to go; keep going when you are on; and the mounting difficulty vanishes.
Steer steadily, and be quick without haste. A hurried change of direction can only be made with¬ out danger of a spill by an expert, and then only in an emergency or for track-work. Bicycling requires precision, and haste or hurry is out of place, while quick and alert movement is required.
Take the bicycle out and do as much as you can with it. Part of the fun is conquering difficulties, and each difficulty overcome is an achievement.
Another difficulty experienced is striking the saddle in mounting. This is usually due to spring¬ ing from the ground to the saddle, or attempting to do so, instead of stepping on the mounting pedal, and supporting and holding the weight on the handle-bars. Of course, if the weight is not sup¬ ported on the machine, and the machine is started, it cannot carry the weight forward. The saddle will strike, and push you over. Mount by means of the handle-bars; let them take you; shift the weight up by them on to the pedal. Then lower the weight to the saddle, step clear of the ground, and lean a little over the bars if necessary to clear the saddle.
In mounting a bicycle, you mount up on the pedal, and settle from that down to the saddle. If the pedal strikes the other foot, it is because the foot is not held up. Do not be in dread of that other foot; hold it well up out of the way, using the mounting foot to make the machine go.
MOUNTING — PREPARATORY POSITION.
DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME.
87
Too great inclination of the machine will spoil the mount, and insufficient inclination will have the same effect. The front wheel must be held in line with the frame, and any wrong tendency corrected by the handle-bars after the weight is raised on the pedal, and the machine is upright.
Many good tires are ruined by ineffectual efforts to mount. The machine is pulled against the tire, and it is hard to understand why the tires are not torn off or ripped to pieces. The light wheels are not made to stand such usage; and it is a mistake to subject a new wheel to it. The rubber is pulled sideways (a proper way to pull a tire off), and the novice is fortunate if the bicycle is not all pulled out of true by being strained in directions not calculated to resist wear and strain. A twenty-pound wheel may be pulled out of true and so bent and untwisted by ineffectual mounting efforts that it cannot be re¬ stored without labor that amounts to practically re¬ building the bicycle.
In turning a bicycle, always lean in the direction the machine is inclined. Lean in the direction you want to go, and very little correction will be needed from the handle-bars. In turning, lean with the wheel, and meet it with the handle-bars. Meeting the machine is done continually, and is done by swinging the front wheel to meet the inclination of the bicycle on whichever side it has a tendency to fall. Bringing up is done by pulling the wheel around a little further quickly, and very quickly back again. The frame is lifted by the front wheel. This is explained in the principles of bicycle con-
88
BICYCLING FOR LA. DIFS.
struction. When an obstacle, as a car track or rut in the road, is met, the obstacle must be crossed squarely; or if obliged to make a different angle, the angle should be met with the front wheel at the instant of contact, and a proper balance maintained with the pedals.
To stop and stand still, pedal slowly until the machine is almost ready to stop; then “catch the pedals half way,” that is, stand cn them, rising from the saddle, having the pedals at equal heights, and alternate the pressure. Hold the saddle firmly, pressing against both sides to feel the balance and to hold the balance by means of the saddle between the pedals with the weight on the feet.
As you catch the pedals, give the front wheel a sudden twist towards the back pedal, which will pre¬ vent the bicycle from falling on that side; then con¬ trol the balance by the weight on the other pedal, and if necessary restore balance by a quick twist of the front wheel. The best way to practise this is to stop near a smooth wall, and use that to assist to steady the balance.
Two people can stop and stand still in this way, crossing hands as in skating, gripping the inner handles of the bicycles, and stopping by holding the pedals and controlling the front wheels by the handles, using the outer hand. This makes a very pretty and effective pause.
Numbness undoubtedly comes from interrupted circulation, caused either by the clothing or the method of working. Numbness of the hands and fingers may be traced generally to tight clothing,
DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME .
89
and after all surface pressure is removed may safely be attributed to a too tight gripping of the handles. A large soft glove often aids to prevent numbness of the fingers; if gloves are not worn, the hand is apt to grasp too closely. Change of position, too, will tend to counteract numbness. It is not well to work too long at a time without a rest, if there is any ten¬ dency of this kind. Walk up hill or on the level to restore the circulation.
Numbness of the foot can be caused by surface pressure, the shoes, or the saddle. Sitting too close to the saddle while working, instead of carrying the weight on the pedals, is apt to produce numbness of the feet. Garters or belts will have the same effect, and must be watched and regulated. A shoe adapted for walking is not at all suitable for serious bicycle exercise; the strains and pressure all come in the wrong places, and confine and numb the feet. Free ankle movement is imperative, and freedom for the lower muscles of the calf of the leg; room for the feet, and especially for the toes to spread and to as¬ sist in pressing the pedal. The sole of the shoe should be stiff, to prevent bruises from the pedals or from irregularities on the ground.
Concussion and a consequent vibratory movement of the bicycle are impossible to avoid, but they need not affect the wheeler injuriously. Numbness is sometimes due to a condition of the nerves of the parts affected by the vibratory movement. To pre¬ vent this condition of affairs, never wheel with the weight on the hands, nor grip the handles of the handle-bars too tight. Rest the hands lightly on the
9°
BICYCLING FOR LADIES .
handles, and be prepared to squeeze hard when necessary. Study the best position and most con¬ venient height for the hands when the machine is best under control, and the jar and vibration are not perceived. All joints of wrist, elbow, and shoulder should transmit any motion, not locate it, by being fixed or rigid at any point.
The tire of the wheel should not be hard, nor should the saddle be fitted with springs; and it should be so placed as to allow the rider to rise easily on the pedals for rough wheeling. These rules being observed, serious danger from this cause need not be apprehended.
Wheeling over cobble-stone pavement or over good Belgian blocks produces a marked vibration in the bicycle. It would be a satisfactory test for adjust¬ ment of position to be able to wheel over such a sur¬ face with comfort, feeling the vibration of the bi¬ cycle hardly at all.
The difficulty experienced in wheeling over rough surface is caused by lack of confidence and by general stiffness of all the muscles, which causes the full force of the vibration to be felt. In carrying the weight on the pedals, the vibration is less in¬ tensely felt. To grip the handles for rough surface riding is almost involuntary, but it is accompanied by acute discomfort from vibration. Pedal work only will meet this difficulty.
There are different methods of mounting. The pedal mount is usually the one first attempted on a drop-frame bicycle; the mount over the wheel on a diamond-frame.
MOUNTING — SECOND POSITION,
DIFFICUL TIES TO O VERCOME.
91
The diamond-frame mount from the peg is made in this way: Standing directly behind the machine, the handles of the handle-bars are grasped firmly. One foot is placed on the peg, and the wheel in¬ clined away from that foot; the foot on the ground gives a shove, and the bicycle moves off, carrying the weight on the peg; and the other foot swings forward to catch the pedal, which was a little behind the top of the circle on starting.
The drop-frame has several rather pretty pedal mounts and vaults. In one, the bars are held, and the machine is started. Watch the rhythm of the pedal, and as it passes the top of the stroke, incline the machine away from you, place the other foot on the pedal, swing the foot next the machine over in front, and catch the other pedal as it rises; then sit easily on the saddle. The vault is made after start¬ ing the machine, running or hurrying along, and springing from the ground to the saddle, using the handles to help. The pedals are found after being seated on the saddle; and the machine moves with the momentum given it in running before rising in the vault.
There is a mount from the pedal on the same side on which you are standing. Start the bicycle, and keep along with it, watching the pedals. As the pedal near you comes up and over the top of the curve, step on it with the outside foot, inclining the machine well away from you; at the same time the weight will carry the pedal around with you, and as it rises, the other pedal and the saddle can be found. The same mount may be made without starting the
92
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
machine. Hold the machine inclined from you; place the outside foot against the pedal until it is at its furthest point away from you; hold the bicycle firmly, and step on, swinging the foot off the ground around to the other pedal, in front of the saddle, not behind it. On the diamond-frame, the same mount is made, only the foot is swung behind the saddle, not in front of it, as is possible on the drop-frame machine.
To stop the bicycle with another person on it, grasp the handle-bars, and take hold of the shoulder of the person propelling the bicycle, if necessary.
CHAPTER XI.
Dress.
The matter of dress for bicycling is quite impor¬ tant from the hygienic standpoint.
Clothing should be most carefully selected, with the view to an equal distribution of weight and an even thickness of material; it should have no con¬ stricting, no tight bands anywhere, but should per¬ mit of absolute freedom of movement, and be warm enough to prevent chilling through too great radia¬ tion of heat, yet porous enough to allow of free evaporation.
All seasons of the year permit of cycling; the bi¬ cyclist therefore has opportunity for much variety in dress. The essentials are knickerbockers, shirt¬ waist, stockings, shoes, gaiters, sweater, coat, no skirt, or skirt with length decided by individual preference, hat and gloves.
The knickerbockers should be very carefully cut; smooth and tight just over the top of the hips, and fitting easily below ; not fulled or gathered ; full at the knees, and boxed or finished with a band and button and button-hole; nothing elastic on any ac¬ count. The stockings should be worn folded on the boxed part of the knickerbockers, below the knees, and rolled down and held by the band of the knicker* bockers, being fastened below. This arrangement
94
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
does away with garters, which compress surface cir¬ culation, or pull if attached at the waist, causing pressure where they pull, and are most objectionable for many reasons. The knickerbockers should be made of cloth or woollen material.
The shirt-waist should have wristbands or sleeves finished to open a little way, and button; the neck finished with a band, with a detachable collar of the same material. The body of the waist should be shaped to the figure at the sides and back, gathered slightly in the front, and finished at the waist-line without a band, and may be of the same material as the rest of the suit. The knickerbockers should button to this waist, the places for the buttons being reinforced. The stockings should preferably be of wool, and of a seasonable weight.
The combination of knickerbockers, shirt-waist, and stockings forms the essential part of a cycling costume. A union under-garment may be worn and the knickerbocker suit; over this a coat and a skirt if desired, with a sweater for an extra wrap.
Bicycling is warm work, and the clothing should always be rather light in weight. For touring it must all be carried on the wheel, and yet be heavy enough for comfort when not exercising, and not too heavy for work, and should, moreover, allow of adjustment for changes in temperature or for any required change in distribution. To this end, all the clothing should be of one color or of colors that look well together. The knickerbockers, waist, and skirt should match; then if the coat is removed, the costume looks complete. An outfit might consist of
MOUNTING OVER THE WHEEL FROM PEG.
DRESS.
95
two suits complete, of different weights; sweaters of different weights; wool stockings, heavy and light, that will roll below the knee without being either bulky or tight.
The knickerbockers are better fastened with a button, the button being in just the right place, than with a strap and buckle, which is liable to be pulled too tight at times.
The shoes should be low, made of thin leather, laced well down toward the toe, with light uppers, and soles stiff yet flexible, and made with grooves to take the pedals. and prevent slipping. Blocks or cleats on the soles to fit the pedals are sometimes preferred, but are hardly so good for general work.
The gaiters may be made of almost any suitable material, leather, canvas, or woollen, to match or con¬ trast with the rest of the costume. They should fit easily around the ankle and over the instep, and should never, on any account, extend more than half way to the knee. The muscles of the calf of the leg must have room to work; and gaiters badly cut, or too tight or too long, would impede circulation and restrict muscular action.
The sweater should come well up around the neck, and pull down easily below the saddle; it is better too long than not long enough to cover the large muscular masses that have been at work, and may be turned up if in the way. It should slip on easily, and be soft and woolly, and not so cumbersome that the coat cannot slip on over it and be buttoned up to the throat.
The coat should be cut long-waisted, and easy
96
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
across the shoulders, single-breasted, and made to button close to the throat; the collar to roll and re¬ main open, but so cut that it may be easily turned up to the ears. The sleeves should be finished with two buttons and button-holes, so that they may be turned up a little if desired.
There are occasions when a covert coat made of close cloth may be useful, when out in very cold weather or standing in the wind without shelter; but it cannot be generally recommended.
Pockets in any part of the dress should be made of woollen material. Cotton retains moisture, and a cotton pocket or a pocket lined with cotton may become damp and clammy and cold, acting almost like a damp compress. The fewer pockets, the better; but a number are often found convenient. Everything if possible should be carried on the wheel, not in the pockets. Metal condenses moisture and interrupts evaporation.
As the skirt should always open at the side, and fasten with several buttons, a convenient pocket may be placed in the placket-hole; a watch-pocket in the skirt is a good thing, but the watch is better carried on the wheel ; and a pocket should be set aside for matches, where they may always be found quickly.
Collars and cuffs of linen or of celluloid, of silk or of the same material as the suit, may be used for touring ; but soft neckwear should be worn if possible.
If a neck-muffler is worn, it should be of cash- mere, not of silk.
Neatness is most important. Each article of dress should be carefully adjusted and fastened.
DRESS.
97
Never use pins or put things carelessly together, hoping they will stay, but be sure that every article of dress fits and is securely fastened, and it will never need a thought after it is in place.
In warm weather gloves with one button are most comfortable; for cooler weather, four buttons, fast¬ ened about the wrists, keep the hands warm.
The adjustment of the covering of wrists and ankles makes the greatest difference in comfort in wheeling. In cold weather, hands and feet should be kept warm; in hot weather, it is comfortable to work with the cuffs turned back and wearing low shoes without gaiters. Indeed, in hot weather it is important not to encase the ankles in heavy boots or leggings, as these would ensure overheating.
The outfit may be completed with a number of hats — a light straw for summer, a soft felt for touring, and a small and becoming hat for the park. The hat should be chosen to stay on easily, and not pinned, but fastened under the hair with elastic, and the hair dressed to stand any amount of blowing about.
The skirt should not reach more than half way below the knee, and the hem and all seams should be finished on the outside; then there will be noth¬ ing to catch or pull. The width around the bottom may be a matter of choice, but the skirt need not fall behind the pedal when furthest back, and should be cut full enough in the front to permit the knees to work easily. The top of the skirt should take the place of a waistband, following the curves of the figure, made to flare at the top of the waist, and
98
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
fitted snugly over the hips and hanging from them. It may be worn with or without a belt.
The coat should be long enough to touch the sad¬ dle or hang an inch or two below it, to protect all the vital organs and as much of the working masses of muscle as possible.
The sweater may be worn for coolness or warmth. As an outside garment, it allows the air to pass through its mesh easily; worn under another gar¬ ment, it is very warm, retaining the heat.
The color of a bicycle suit may be chosen for the kind of work to be done; its texture may be decided suitable if, a piece being held over the mouth, it is possible to inhale and exhale through it easily. The cloth should be firm enough to stand wear and rough usage; smooth enough to shed dust easily; and of a quality that will stand being wet without shrinking, and will turn the rain if caught in a shower. It should be firm, elastic, soft; have what is known as substance; be very light in weight and yet not cling¬ ing; and possessing all these qualities, the ideal cloth for bicycling should not be so expensive that it cannot be renewed easily.
Simplicity in detail for any garment made to work in is always commendable, and a bicycle dress must be simple to be suitable.
A corset, if one is worn, should not extend below the waist-line, and should have elastic side-lacing.
To choose what to wear when the weather is changeable is rather difficult; and the bicyclist start¬ ing early in the morning for an all-day outing must expect changes of temperature during the day.
DRESS.
99
Starting, the coat ma)r be folded on the handles, and the sweater worn ; later, as the sun grows warmer, the sweater may be removed; at the noonday halt, the coat may be donned while lunching, as it usually seems chilly coming under cover; later in the after¬ noon the sweater is again of use; and before the evening is advanced, the coat worn over the sweater often proves acceptable.
For touring, only an extra change of underwear, with a change of neckwear, is needed to carry on the wheel.
To look well at all times when bicycling, it is necessary to remember the possible conditions that may be encountered, and to wear no garment that may prove incongruous.
When touring, of course, fresh toilettes may be indulged in at the expense of extra luggage. The chief pleasure of bicycling is independence and the joy of being free; yet a long trip without access to the conveniences and even the luxuries of civiliza¬ tion, should not be attempted. A trunk may be sent home as soon as it has been proved unnecessary, or sent ahead and met at intervals; but its non-arrival should never be allowed to disconcert the traveller.
It is an accepted fact that bicycling cannot be properly enjoyed unless the clothing is suitable. Of course, one can take a drop-frame bicycle, mount, and wheel slowly for a short distance, barring incon¬ veniences, in ordinary dress; so can one swim a little if unexpectedly placed in the water. Bicycling requires the same freedom of movement that swim¬ ming does, and the dress must not hamper or hinder.
CHAPTER XII.
Watch and Cyclometer.
Suitably attired, with a bicycle of the latest model and most perfect construction, it matters little whether the residence be in town or country, for the largest city is soon left behind. The county, when the highway ceases to be passable, is easily travers¬ able on the foot-trodden pathway beside it. Wher¬ ever the foot has trodden, the wheel may follow, if the path be well defined ; and as the wheel can be carried easily, there is no limit but the limit of en¬ durance in crossing country that cannot be wheeled over. But in order to cover distance without dis¬ mounting and within a time limit, where the speed attained is an element to be considered, good roads should be chosen.
The bicycle multiplies our power of advancing by five. One who can walk three miles in an hour can wheel fifteen miles on a bicycle, given all the condi¬ tions necessary to attain that speed for the period of an hour. The wonderful speed of the running and sprinting athlete is again multiplied by five, for a short time, in the contests where wheeling records are made.
While increasing the distance travelled the bicycle
IV A TCH AND CYCLOMETER .
IOI
has greatly decreased the time limit. A person travelling afoot at the rate of three miles an hour (the average walking gait) covers a mile in twenty minutes, and at the end of an hour is not more than three miles from the starting point. On a bicycle a mile is covered usually in four minutes or less. The average distance, owing to the varied resistance met, is not usually so great; and more power may be ex¬ pended in the hour than is required to walk three miles in the same length of time. Six miles may be the record for an hour on a wheel, and yet the amount of work done be very great. Until the po¬ sition is adjusted to suit individual requirements, the output of power to accomplish a certain distance, even though it be a short one, is necessarily great. Considerable study is necessary to work out the per¬ fect individual adjustment of the bicycle, weight of clothing, and amount of practice requisite to easy, rhythmical movement; but that once attained, the world lies before you.
Bicycling trains and quickens the perceptions; it cultivates and develops courage, judgment, and dis¬ crimination as well as prompt decision and quick and accurate sight. The hand follows the eye without effort; and the machine responds to each impression received without conscious expenditure of power.
To cyclists is due the keen public interest recent¬ ly aroused in good roadways and in legislation to effect their construction, and the consequent im¬ provement in public highways. For years the ama¬ teur cyclists of the country labored to this end in
102
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
the interest of the sport, the League of American Wheelmen intelligently preparing the minds of the public on the subject.
To be accomplished as a bicyclist means something more than knowing how to wheel a bicycle and to be able to get about on it. It is necessary besides to keep informed of the laws and ordinances relating to bicycles and to vehicles in general; to possess a complete and accurate knowledge of the wheel as a machine; to be able to do for it all that can be done one’s self or to direct another who has not this knowledge; to know the country travelled, know distance and direction; the use of map and compass, and how to travel without them, finding the direc¬ tion by sun or stars, or even, if need be, without either; to understand the effect of time and season on the face of nature and to cultivate the senses of the woods.
If, while touring with a party, you find that you have missed the way in a strange country and that something about the bicycle has given out, calm decision is requisite. Estimate your resources, and keep quiet. Do not try to find your party; let them find you. Study your wheel-tracks; if off the line of travel, follow them carefully to where they join the tracks of your companions. Then wait until some one comes for you. Rest or be busy about your wheel. Do what you can easily, not to be tired and worn out when your companions find you. It is sel¬ dom wise to try and walk after the party; the only object in moving would be to keep warm, for a chill must be avoided.
WATCH AND CYCLOMETER.
103
There is a wonderful difference in the distances covered under different conditions. Winds, adverse or favorable, affect the bicyclist more than anything else. An unfavorable wind is one directly ahead or that can be felt on either cheek while advancing. A favorable wind is one that blows on the back, or cannot be felt on either cheek while looking ahead. A wind blowing directly at right angles with the direction of the wheel is a favorable wind ; you un¬ consciously balance against it, and the bicycle glides forward under pressure as a boat does with the sail trimmed in.
When starting out, note the weather conditions; what the prevailing winds are and what the changes are likely to be during the time you expect to be on your bicycle. If the wind is west or northwest, do not take that direction for the run out, unless the trip is to be a short one. Always try to have the wind with you, both going and returning. Learn the peculiarities of the weather and study the govern¬ ment weather reports; they are of quite as much assistance to the bicyclist as to the mariner who knows how to use them ; for winds frequently change their direction, and the indications for such changes should be sought and studied.
If a short trip is planned, as the wind is not likely to change during the run, start out against the wind ; that is, plan to do the hardest work first, and let the wind help on the return. Avoid hard work when¬ ever possible. Hill-climbing against the wind is the hardest kind of work; with the wind to assist, even quite steep hills may often be coasted part of the
io4
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
way up, and all easy grades taken with the feet off the pedals. Coasting should be indulged in with discretion, or the bicycle may run away with you. Check speed at the first indication that the wheel is escaping control by applying the brake and catching the pedal, back pedaling at the same time. On a public road, the bicy;le should never be beyond control.
To thoroughly enjoy an outing, road, direction, and atmospheric conditions should be studied. If you are out for several hours’ spin in chilty weather, there is little pleasure to be had in exploring; but in weather when the temperature permits of stops without danger to health, frequent dismounts and short-distance trips across country are enjoyable. One of the pleasures of bicyclists is the good fellow¬ ship existing between them, which is rarely dis¬ turbed. On the bicycle conversation is interrupted by long pauses, by intervals of silence, when each rider is alone, with opportunity for reflection and mental expansion.
On long trips note first the general direction of the road, the wind, and the sun; try to have the wind with you and the sun behind you for the better part of the day. Be able to change your plans quickly to meet changed conditions, and have a reserve of grit to fall back on if things do not go quite to your liking. Dressed for bicycling, it matters little whether it rains or shines; but wind, sand, and stones make impossible conditions for the bicyclist. When wind has reached a certain velocity, wheeling be¬ comes unsafe. Mud causes the wheels to slip and
WATCH AND CYCLOMETER. 105
prevents them from turning; sand does the same. A surface offering little or no resistance is impossible. Stones are dangerously liable to cause spills, while ruts and bumps twist the bicycle and are apt to throw the rider.
In the autumn months, when the sun sets early, a lantern should be provided even when it seems an absurdly unnecessary encumbrance; for a town or village where the ordinances are strict may lie on the route, and the unlucky bicyclist without a light must go afoot.
Of course, speeding cannot be attempted with the bicycle encumbered; but with all the extras, a good average speed may be maintained. The bicyclist wishing for freedom from all encum¬ brance is apt to forget unpleasant possibilities. A punctured tire thirty miles from anything is such a possibility; so, though the tool-kit weighs something, it can never prudently be dispensed with.
Have the bicycle all ready, and start free from care and with a quiet mind, after a last careful and reas¬ suring inspection of the machine. Starting from a town with a perfectly running machine, the attention is first directed to getting into the country easily, either by train or by wheeling. In wheeling, streets free from traffic and with the best possible surfaces should be chosen.
Country wheeling is often good when city work is impossible. The dangers of city wheeling are traffic, car tracks, and mud. City mud is usually of a greasy nature, very difficult to wheel over. Even
io6
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
pedaling is very necessary, and uneven pressure on the pedals means a side spill.
In wheeling over mud, never attempt to control the machine by the front wheel; it must be con¬ trolled by the pedals. If too much pressure is used, there is nothing left but to step off. Do not try to recover by means of the front wheel; the attempt will be useless, and a fall can be avoided only by stepping off. Keep the front wheel steady, and rely on the weight-carrying wheel to take you clear of the mud. Keep a sharp lookout, and travel slowly. Any one can make a bicycle go.
Get out of town, and then be ready to pedal up to time on the first clear stretch of good road. Make time, but never hurry. Never work hard over hill- work or try to go fast against the wind. When using side-paths, always recollect they may be protected by local ordinances. Keep posted on the law of the road, taking to the highway on approaching towns and villages. If the work is hard, travel slowly, and look ahead. Two good rules are — To travel fast, look well ahead ; and watch the ground when there is a hard bit of road to pass over.
A good stiff pull against the wind can be accom¬ plished easily, really easily, if you take your time, giving full attention to pedaling, and keeping the eyes a short distance ahead of the wheel. It is much easier to rest on the bicycle by slowing than to dis¬ mount. In cold weather, never stop without seeking shelter, at least the lee of bank or wall; and keep away from a fire, as it renders one liable to take cold. Nothing is so dangerous in
WA TCH A AW C YCL OME TER.
107
frosty weather as a pause of even a few minutes dismounted.
In warm weather, it is permissible to drink water when wheeling; but it should be remembered that the bicyclist passes through all sorts of country, and the water may sometimes be anything but drinkable from a sanitary point of view, even causing typhoid and other fevers. Water that has been boiled is un¬ palatable, but it is safe; boiled and cooled, it may be rendered more palatable by shaking it or pouring it from one pitcher to another to mix air with it. Ice in water is another source of danger. The water, after being boiled or filtered, should be placed in bottles with absorbent cotton for stoppers, and cooled by being placed on ice. Muddy water may be cleansed with a piece of alum. If a lump of alum is stirred about for a second or two in a pail or pitcher of muddy water, and then the water allowed to settle, it will be found fit to boil for drinking. Bottled waters are safest when the country is unknown or when there is doubt as to the purity of the local supply; but failing these, the precautions mentioned will ensure safety.
Never prolong bicycle exercise without eating, and never work after a hearty meal; but the con¬ sumption of a couple of sandwiches at noon cannot be regarded as a serious meal; and it is often better to push on after a short halt, moving slowly, than to sit around on rocks or stumps to wait for a proper digestive period to elapse. It is well to have a small reserve supply of food, such as chocolate or beef tablets, to tide one over a prolonged period between
io8
BIC YCLING FOR LA DIFS.
meals. Milk and bread and cheese are good to take as an extra meal. Never work hungry if it can be avoided; the bicycle will lag, and the cyclist wonder at being weary. Keep up the food supply by all means, for fatigue sets in quickly with the desire for food, and the system quickly becomes enfeebled.
•The cyclometer registers each revolution of the wheel, and by an ingenious mechanism the dial gives the record in miles. There is a great temptation to roll up miles, that the cyclometer may make a good showing; indeed, this striving after mileage often becomes a ruling passion, interfering with the real pleasures of the sport.
The pedestrian, accustomed to noting distances, can usually judge the rate or pace travelled, and de¬ cide very accurately upon the distance traversed, with only the time as a guide; for the pace, so many miles an hour, multiplied by the number of hours, gives the distance.
On the bicycle the pace is very easily estimated in a similar manner. Count the strokes per minute as each knee rises, divide that by two, and you have the number of revolutions of the crank. The gear gives the diameter of the wheel larger than the one on the bicycle; sixty-four gear, for instance, means that the crank revolution covers a distance equal to a wheel with a diameter of sixty-four inches. The circum¬ ference of a wheel is three times its diameter; and 64 multiplied by 3 equals 192 inches measured on the ground for one revolution of the crank. Multiply the distance measured on the ground by the crank revolution by the number of strokes made per
WATCH AND CYCLOMETER. 109
minute, divide by twelve to give the number of feet the crank has covered in one revolution, and you have the distance in feet travelled per minute. To find the rate of miles per hour, multiply that result by 60 to find the number of feet travelled per hour, and divide the result by 5280, the number of feet in a mile. The watch should have a second hand for bicycle work. The cyclometer taken for five minutes, then multiplied by twelve, gives the rate of mileage per hour, a very convenient way of ascertaining the rate of speed per hour.
It is well to know the rhythm of stroke of a certain rate per hour, for it is often of assistance in determin¬ ing distance, and will frequently prevent a hurry when train connections are to be made, by assuring you that you are easily travelling a pace that will take you to your destination on time.
The alertness and quickness of perception that bi¬ cycling cultivates seem marvellous. A road, pre¬ viously accepted as ordinarily good, becomes full of pitfalls that the wary learn to avoid. Slippery or uneven surfaces, tacks and broken glass, are to be noted and avoided, inequalities allowed for, and preparation made to overcome the tendency of the machine on unexpected hard bits of road.
One of the dangers of sidepath wheeling often en¬ countered is a slippery spot or a place where the sur¬ face may give way, such as the edge of a bank along which the path runs, with a fence on the other side. Here, if the bicycle slips, the bicyclist is pretty sure to be thrown against the fence. In sidepath wheel¬ ing a sharp lookout must be kept for these slippery
no
BICYCLING FOR LA DIFS.
spots and weak edges, and also for stones or stumps that run through the uneven surface.
A first coast on a hill whose pitch has been miscal¬ culated, and which proves steeper than was antici¬ pated, is a terrible surprise. To find one’s self cling¬ ing desperately to a runaway machine, with no hope save in the ascending grade that seems so far away, is anything but a pleasant experience. In such case sit still, hold fast, keep straight, and if nothing is in the way to collide with, there is hope, barring unex¬ pected surface obstacles. The coaster’s safety in steering lies in swaying; the pedals are out of the question, and the front wheel is better undisturbed. A slight inclination to either side will alter the course of the bicycle without interfering with balance or momentum, and the hands can be read)q gripping hard, to keep the wheel steady.
In coasting, sit well in the saddle, letting that take the whole weight, and do not push too hard with the feet on the coasters. The feet should not be braced against the coasters, but should rest easily against them with an even pressure.
To learn to coast, practise at first either on a slight or a small grade; another way is to get up speed on the level, and take one foot off at the time. The most marvellous experience of bicycling is to have a wind carry you coasting up hill — a wind, too, that is seemingly adverse, or at least not directly favorable.
Trust to the map, the watch, and the cyclometer to locate your whereabouts, and do not place too much faith in answers to inquiries, unless you are
WATCH AND CYCLOMETER.
ill
speaking to a bicyclist; for people unaccustomed to accurate judgment differ greatly in their estimation of a given distance or a general direction. You need only stop three or four times in a mile or two, and inquire the way to a town say five or six miles dis¬ tant, to be convinced of this fact.
CHAPTER XIII.
Women and Tools.
Most women can sew on a button o-r run up a seam ; sewing, in fact, is regarded rather as a feminine in¬ stinct than an art. There are many capable people in the world, both men and women, who can compre¬ hend at a glance the use or the application of an article or an idea — people who instinctively use their eyes and hands with ease and accuracy; there are others who learn more slowly to use their me¬ chanical senses; and there are also those whose at¬ tention has never been called to certain simple me¬ chanical facts and details that they are quite capable of understanding. To all the mastery of these facts means an expenditure of more or less time, and in this busy world of ours, there is nothing so much ap¬ preciated or so carelessly wasted. It is my intention to place before my readers a few simple mechanical explanations.
I hold that any woman who is able to use a needle or scissors can use other tools equally well. It is a very important matter for a bicyclist to be acquainted with all parts of the bicycle, their uses and adjustment. Many a weary hour would be spared were a little prop¬ er attention given at the right time to your machine.
STARTING A NUT.
WOMEN AND TOOLS .
”3
Ask any carriage maker or coachman, and he will tell you that everything on wheels needs attention. Any owner or lover of horses will say that horses re¬ quire constant care. The bicyclist is the motor, the horse; the bicycle, the vehicle. These ideas should remain distinct. When you mount a wheel, you do not mount an iron horse; you are a human propel¬ ling power, and the bicycle is a carriage.
It is all important to work without unnecessary effort, and for this you must have a knowledge of bicycle construction, how to make the machine run smoothly, and how not to injure the human motor or the mechanism. The human body is so beautifully self-adjustable that it may be safely attributed to ig¬ norance or neglect if anything goes wrong with it. Attention should always be paid at the right time to nature’s warnings; they are danger-signals, and if disregarded, unpleasant results are sure to follow. A little common-sense goes far; and with that and a right knowledge — not necessarily an extensive knowl¬ edge — of the working of the human machine, there need be little to fear from injuries resulting from athletic exercise.
The amount of work different individuals can per¬ form, of course, varies. Find out how much work you ought to do, and do it. A physician is the only competent judge of your limitations. Never at¬ tempt any new form of exercise without being ex¬ amined for it. Sensible people when they purchase a horse require a veterinary certificate to accompany the guarantee; and the work the horse is to do is planned according to the ascertained amount the
BICYCLING FOR LADIES.
114
animal is capable of performing. If it is right for you to wheel but five miles every other day, and at a certain hour only, it does not follow that that is always to be your limit. Practice accomplishes great results; and the strength and endurance that come of exercise taken regularly, under proper conditions, seems marvellous to those who, after a course of proper preparation, attempt and accomplish with pleasure and ease what at first seemed impossible. It is hard, of course, to see some one else do what you would like to do and cannot; but it is weak not to be able to say, “I have done enough, and I must stop. ’ ’ There are many other people similarly placed.
The bicycle may be so adapted and adjusted as to enable bicyclists of different powers to work together and enjoy a fair amount of sociability; for if one has wheeled around the world, why should that spoil one’s pleasure in wheeling around a block? To wheel alone is not much pleasure. Find some one to wheel around the block with you, and you have the beginning of a club.
Many people do not understand what is best for them. The experienced athlete knows the amount of work he can do, and what must be done and avoided to enable him to do his work well. Women and girls are able to do good work, but they should not expect to accomplish such a result through igno¬ rance or neglect. They must be willing to study and to give proper attention to important details, and their knowledge of the subject must be sufficient to enable them to use judgment and discrimination. Almost any form of athletics will aid in cultivating
WOMEN AND TOOLS.
115
these qualities; and bicycling has besides valuable educational features of its own. A certain familiar- ity with mechanics is assured by a course of bid¬ ding, for it is impossible to handle a bicycle with¬ out taking some degree of interest in its construction.
Women must expect ridicule and little sympathy from experienced cyclists if they essay feats they should not attempt. Many decide that a thing must be easy of accomplishment because they have seen some one do it easily. Easy muscular work, how¬ ever, is the result of strength, confidence, and pre¬ cision of movement, which come only from practice. All new muscular movements and combinations of movements must be learned ; they cannot be acquired hurriedly with good results. People who can work well are usually patient with a beginner who is doing his best, knowing themselves what it means to work hard and to face disappointment and failure and what is involved in repeated effort. The ambitious are liable to over-exertion, the timid not to practice enough.
There is much prejudice against athletic exercise for women and girls, many believing that nothing of the kind can be done without over-doing; but there is a right way of going about athletics as every¬ thing else. Prejudice can be removed only by show¬ ing good results, and good results can be accom¬ plished only by work done under proper restrictions. To do a thing easily is to do it gracefully ; and grace, without properly balanced muscular action, is im¬ possible; grace is the embodiment of balance, strength, and intelligence. Jerky movement indi¬ cates lack of muscular development and training.
n6 BICYCLING FOB LADIES.
The human machine is capable of a seemingly un¬ limited series of muscular movements and combined muscular motions. Any training or practice of mind or muscles assists to fit them for new combinations. But little time is necessary to learn to know how to do and what to do, though the subjects to be consid¬ ered, mechanics and physiology, are exhaustive and extensive in their range.
It is always a pleasure to do a thing well, whether it is handling a needle or using a screw-driver; and the art of using either successfully is not difficult to acquire. With the bicycle it is necessary to know what to do; the human motor, unless pushed beyond reasonable limits, is self-adjusting. Over-taxing is the result often of too great ambition, of failure to keep in view the proper aim of exercise, and sacrifi¬ cing health and ultimate success for passing vanity. The bicycle is but the means to the end, first of all, of health — health of mind and body. The human me¬ chanism is far more difficult to adjust when out of order than the mechanism of the bicycle. In bicy¬ cling, the two machines are one and interdependent. The foot on the pedal pushing the crank is but one point of application of power conveyed by a series of levers, actuated by muscles, controlled by nerves, supplied and directed by accumulated power.
We hear of horse-power as a unit; we have also human power — the amount of power the average in¬ dividual can exercise. Food supplies material to be converted into power, stored and transmuted in the human system either for use or waste, as the case may be. Energy or power, unless applied within a sped-
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ADJUSTING A WRENCH.
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WOMEN AND TOOLS. 117
fied time, is given off as heat, etc. Less food is needed, loss of appetite follows, if too little work is done. The muscular tissues become almost useless, it is an effort to do any kind of work; the power is not there. By gradual and persistent practice, strength is acquired, and power stored in reserve. Exercise tends to strengthen, not to weaken; over¬ exercise uses up stored power and newly acquired power as well; longer periods of restare needed to renew the wasted tissues than is necessary when ex¬ ercise is not carried to excess. It must be kept in mind when bicycling that rider and wheel are a com¬ plete, compound, combined mechanism, and mechan- icalty inseparable. The wheeler’s weight, when shifted or inclined, affects his equilibrium, and wheeler and bicycle are as much one as a skater and his skates.
Levers and their application ; power, stored, dis¬ tributed, or wasted; how to prevent waste and ac¬ quire reserve; proper adjustment to mechanical en¬ vironment, translated to mean the use of a few common tools, and their application to the adjust¬ ment of the bicycle; and the care, adjustment, and proper preparation of the machine for work, are points of such importance that too much stress can¬ not be laid on them. A little thought, a little atten¬ tion at the right time, prepares for emergencies, for cheerful work, and for the enjoyment of the exercise, and the health and accumulated benefits sure to follow.
CHAPTER XIV.
Tools and How to Use Them.